Bermnerfs

Holy shit, I haven't thought about this commercial in decades and your post made it play in my head like I just watched it!

Aesthetically, I think drop bars look dope as hell, especially on gravel bikes and monstercross/hardtail mountain bikes. Functionally, I much prefer an upright seating position, and put a 50mm riser bar with 25⁰ backsweep which is perfect for me ergonomically. I am older and not in the best shape so comfort is priority over performance. So while I like the look of drop bars, my lower back and wrists ache just looking at them.

Looks to me like a Tektro HD-M275/285 or similar. They have several 2-piston brakes that are all very similar and use the same pads, fluid, etc. Are you sure there's no model # embossed somewhere on the caliper?

Nice build! Here is my DIY Hardtail conversion. I would suggest a dropper post and nicer pedals for starters. https://preview.redd.it/5p33w5n23b4h1.jpeg?width=3809&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dca5f2262a850f8e4746df31f2e5cd6a5cb9c2e7

Seriously, I typically travel between 12 to 15mph on the main artery of my local MTB trail system. This is a flat unpaved dirt/gravel path with rocks and roots. On road 15mph is basically a leisurely pace for a lot of people, and way too slow for an upper limit IMO. Especially here in the USA where we aren't simply riding a couple of miles to the villiage bakery on cobblestone paths. Our commutes are much longer on average than Europe, and we don't have such tight congested streets either.

Not nearly as lightweight or premium as your daydream, but I did build something similar. It weighs a little under 60lbs, but it has a ton of power and decent range. https://preview.redd.it/1ggy3vvroo3h1.jpeg?width=3726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=75355660b0d1b04fbc4f9960baf8823cbd82284f

I have been quite happy with my 750W BBS02. I ride singletrack with my DIY e-mtb and while I would prefer torque sensing, the Bafang motors can be smoothed out so the power kicks in more gradually via programming. Otherwise it has tons of torque and will climb just about anything as long as the rear tire can maintain grip. https://preview.redd.it/t8bhxaip6h3h1.jpeg?width=3809&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2f71ef4357069313b2a2591a1530848fe260114e

IDK if it was more of a regional thing, but up here in New England they were sold at Cumberland Farms in the 80's and 90's. I actually think the company still exists, and makes them, but no longer sold locally. I think they might also sell them under the "Nutrament" brand in some areas. I might have to order a case online for nostalgia's sake. They were so good, I wonder if the recipe has changed or remained the same. Chocolate and strawberry were my favorites. https://preview.redd.it/97l2mip6uh2h1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=78bfc909472998e3503beb25b52ecc42363b7183

I went the DIY route and have zero regrets. I went with a 750W Bafang BBS02 mid drive kit. You get way more bang for your $ by going the DIY route, especially if you already have a donor bike. Not only that, but you know exactly how it all works and can maintain it yourself. Plus you get the benefit of massive community knowledge, and aftermarket support for upgrades components. Everything is pretty much off the shelf and replacable, and you can even get replacement or upgraded parts for the motor itself. You can even swap the kit over to a new bike or frame if you ever decide you want something else. I would have had to spend 2-3X as much to get the performance of my DIY build, it can climb just about anything as long as the rear wheel maintains grip while barely breaking a sweat. With a 48V 20ah battery pack it easily gets 40+ miles of real world range. If you are handy, and already have a bike you like, going the DIY route is a no-brainer. https://preview.redd.it/qkvew15owc2h1.jpeg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1e7ec9bf3dd12b99b1c62420790686b3ddffc2e4

The beauty of building your own bike is that you get a lot more bang for your $, especially if you already have a donor bike, and you will know exactly how it works so you can maintain it yourself. Plus none of the parts will be proprietary, and if you go with something like a Bafang mid-drive you will get the benefit of a massive community that can share knowledge as well as aftermarket support for upgrades. And you end up with a really powerful bike that climbing ability is only limited by traction, and plenty of range depending on the battery pack. I went the DIY route and have zero regrets. I would have had to spend 2-3x as much to buy a bike that offers the same performance. *Processing img d3ebda02rc2h1...*

For me, it was Sports Shake! I don't know why they weren't more popular, they were amazing.

I built my own mid-drive with a BBS02 kit and have zero regrets. Plenty of power and range, and I can maintain and repair it myself if anything has issues. There's plenty of parts support and aftermarket upgrades as well as massive community support for troubleshooting. I am getting ready to build another one for my teenage son next. https://preview.redd.it/k5lr703kma2h1.jpeg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=aa80c7585e472376de0d8e7f2ab8d000fbe1c937

I think a mid-drive is a far better option for fatties, especially if you plan to climb any hills. Mechanical advantage has a lot of, well, advantages. I weigh 300lbs and my 750W mid drive with a 42T chainring and 11-48T cassette will zip me up even the steepest of technical trails as long as the rear tire maintains traction. Grip is the only limit to what it can climb, and it's barely even working when on the largest cog.

I think 400 is the budget, not rider weight? I thought the same as you at first but after reading I assume he is talking about a $400 bike.

To get 70 miles of range out of a 115lb 1500W hub drive with a 15ah battery would require riding downhill the entire time with the wind pushing from behind. Take those specs with a grain of salt is what they're saying.

What's your intended purpose? It'll definitely fit a lot of stuff, but that will also be a lot of weight up high. Good for cargo bike purposes if you're carrying large but light things, but handling will suffer, as will aerodynamics. Crates/wire baskets don't create as much drag since air can pass thru them. Of course if you're only planning to ride short distances at lower speeds, aero doesn't matter much.

Go with a compact battery pump. Once you get one you'll never go back to a hand pump. They inflate tires super quickly, are small enough to carry in a saddle, frame, or handlebar bag, and since they use lithium batteries they barely self discharge. You won't have to worry about it being dead when you need it as long as you check the charge level every once in a while. I top off my tire pressure with my compressor before riding and only use my portable inflator for emergencies or to add air to my friends tires here and there. My battery level is still over 80% and I haven't charged it since early March.

I use a rectangle wire rack that's more shallow, it looks better and works perfectly with a net over the top for carrying cargo. https://preview.redd.it/itso4w2ojq1h1.png?width=1033&format=png&auto=webp&s=1619e4b019163ef6e2c9168bd2d3f0b55cb3dc34

In here talking about neglegent riders while answering phone calls and digging through your bags while riding? Isn't that distracted driving?

Is there a reason why you're set on Cues? It's honestly more of a downgrade from Advent X IMO. Going to Advent MX or Shimano SLX/XT would be an upgrade. Cues is more of a replacement for Altus/Acera/Alivio, where Advent X is more on par with Deore.

If you have never ridden a bike, I'm not sure that an e-bike is the best place to start. It might make sense to look for a cheap used analog bike on marketplace to learn the basics of riding on, then buy an e-bike once you're comfortable. Hopping on a powered bike with no experience balancing, steering, braking, shifting, etc. seems like a good way to get injured.

I've had Microshift Advent 9-speed and Advent X. I have also had several Shimano setups. Microshift makes really solid groupsets, I would have no issue with recommending one for an e-bike. My current DIY mid drive build uses a mix of a 10-speed Advent MX 11-48T cassette, a Deore RD-M5100 derailleur, and a 10-speed Shimano Saint shifter. The only reason I am not running an Advent X/MX derailleur and shift lever is because I prefer the features of the Shimano Saint/XT shift levers.

Yes, but it's very clearly not the DIY crowd causing these issues. Downvote all you guys want, it's the teenagers on electric dirt bikes/mini bikes causing the issues. Not the hobbyists doing conversions that also happen to be fast.

I think its pretty simple, base it on the frame. An e-bike and e-moto frame look very different, and everything else is built around that.

Hell yeah, sweet build! Nice frame and component choices. I went the DIY mid drive route myself for the same reasons you did. I built a hardtail using a 4130 chromoly NS Surge Evo frame and went with a BBS02 as well. Glad to see some other DIY'ers here! https://preview.redd.it/0hf3qtw7850h1.jpeg?width=3809&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8304b0a4bc3f4822997c9338aa1221bdcdf35139

Are you sure the frame/dropouts didn't get tweaked in the crash? I'd image improper wheel alignment is going to cause some considerable NVH. Also, was the replacement wheel tested before buying? Could also be something broken inside the hub drive. Without a pic/video all we can do is make guesses.

This whole chain -- is just chef's kiss.

It's not that these posts are from bots, it's that the bots are now influencing how people speak since they now communicate with ChatGPT more than other humans. And yes I purposely wrote it that way, not a bot I swear.

Don't forget, there's also r/electricbikes!

Thanks for your feedback, I will take it very seriously I can assure you. Also, I don't bring my bike on a train, I ride it to the trail system a mile down the road from my house. Post pics of your DIY e-bikes then, let's see this expertise that has you going around critiquing other's builds so harshly.

I won't complain because thankfully the other riders aren't sanctimonious pearl clutching weenies where I ride. Based on your claims, all of the million other devices that contain lithium ion batteries should be banned, because after all, in a crash they could start a forest fire too. So no cell phones, smart watches, bike computers, wireless derailleurs, and flashlights. Oh and of course we can't have any open flames either, those could also start a wildfire, so ban lighters, stoves, campfires. Let's ignore the fact that most battery pack fires happen during the charging process, and usually is due to poor charging practices, overcharging and over discharging on packs with a low quality BMS and/or old recycled cells. You're greatly exaggerating the risks at play. I have a lot of experience with lithium ion cells and know the risks and best practices. I build my own solar generators and battery packs, I have been doing this for years. You are just fear mongering out of ignorance Also, wtf does clock boy even mean?

Yeah that's not going to happen, it's in an ABS plastic case inside of a padded bag. Batteries aren't made from nitro glycerine, stop the fear mongering.

Wut?

I build my own mid-drive hardtail with a NS Surge Evo frame, 130mm Fox 34 fork, and a 750W BBS02 mid drive with a 48V 960wH battery pack. It's a mullet using a 29/27.5" Stan's Flow S2 wheelset, 29x2.6/27.5x2.4" Kenda Nevegal Pro 2 EMC tires setup tubeless, Deore 4-piston brakes, 203/180mm TRP rotors, PNW Dropper, Spank handlebar and stem, and a unique groupset combo that works perfectly with this mid-drive. All in I spent about \~$2K on this bike and it absolutely rips, plus I know I can maintain and repair this bike as things wear out, and aftermarket support for Bafang mid-drives is growing, plus the massive community support. I am really happy with how this turned out and it absolutely rips on singletrack + pavement. I really hammer on this bike, it's been put thru a lot so far, tons of root gardens, over rock walls, lots of technical single track and it has held up great so far. The big trade off with a BBS02/BBSHD is cadence sensing instead of torque sensing which the latter is definitely superior for serious trail use. But with the parameters of eco mode tweaked it's totally usable for singletrack. I may upgrade to a CYC Photon in the future then I will have torque sensing. If you're capable of building your own e-mtb you can certainly get a lot of bang for your buck. https://preview.redd.it/dsk80122pezg1.jpeg?width=3726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d912779fabcaa5ac83213f4aea66091f9ec99ec0

250wH at 36V is only like ~7aH. If you're using a lot of PAS or climbing a lot, 20+ miles is pretty decent range for a pack that small, if not a bit optimistic. My DIY mid drive is 750W with a 48V 20aH pack (960wH), I run mostly on eco mode and only get about 45ish miles from a full charge.

FWIW I weigh 300lbs and really thrash my bike on technical single track. Lots of extremely steep climbs, and smashing down root gardens. I put a ton of strain on my bike and it takes it like a champ. Definitely get a shift sensor, and make sure you are timing your shifts as optimally as possible. Carry a couple of spare quick links just in case, but you'll probably be fine as long as it's a quality chain and everything is dialed in correctly. Here's a pic of my build: https://preview.redd.it/yuzbt2mb4czg1.jpeg?width=3726&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=96a2cd22e1742be7db9f53c90956d3b57504fcc5

I run a 1x10 Deore/Saint setup with a BBS02, and a KMC E11 chain. I run a 42T offset chainring which gives me a ~49mm chainline. It shifts beautifully, but I am also mindful about how I shift. Mainly downshifting before a climb, and letting up on pedaling when shifting under load. The Saint shifter also has "Instant release" which is fast enough to shift multiple gears while the shift sensor cuts power momentarily. So far the drivetrain seems to be holding up great and I haven't noticed much more wear than an analog bike. If you make sure your drivetrain and chainline are dialed in and are smart about shifting a 10, 11, or 12 speed setup can work great with a mid drive.

Is this the one where they take a blowtorch to a pig strapped to a table? That one really messed me up to watch. I was so damn angry anyone would do that to an animal.

DIY Mid drive mullet hardtail build with a Bafang 750W BBS02 and a 48V 20aH battery pack. I use it for riding technical singletrack, it climbs like a beast, will go up nearly anything, traction is the only limiting factor. It rips on gravel and pavement too. I absolutely love it. https://preview.redd.it/6jkxzxsjx0zg1.jpeg?width=3642&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=c85c0b988eb6e8b434686acb774237e3cd314ea2

I use a pulley hoist mounted to hooks in my ceiling to lift my bike. I wrap some Paracord around the front or rear to lift and remove a wheel. If I want to lift the entire bike I use paracord around the head tube and rear triangle. https://preview.redd.it/3tk5pvhy5xyg1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8c587b91caa1cb3b2f1c2f04e4cff3896e707f35

More wattage sure, but definitely not more torque and ability to climb/accelerate.

The bag the pack came with has its own straps but since I ride a lot of technical single track I didn't trust them to bolt it, so I added extra support. On pavement the bag straps alone would be fine.

Do it! I built my own mid-drive for about $1200. https://preview.redd.it/15wt1a3wcfyg1.jpeg?width=4096&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5bec87a46581440e13b5ae7e4ce68e1b0fee761e

You want a throttle instead of just learning proper biking technique? It's not hard to downshift into a lower head when approaching a stop. After doing it a few times it becomes second nature. Starting from a stop in a high gear with a mid drive isn't just poor technique, it add's a lot more strain to the motor and drivetrain components, kills efficiency, and will accelerate slow as hell.

100%. Honestly if you have the crank puller + bottom bracket tool to remove the factory crankset, a mid-drive conversion is super easy to install. It's all pretty intuitive. Took me about an hour to install mine, then a couple more hours to perfect the cable management and fine tune everything.

For just $500 more you could get an Aventon Ramblas ADV, or for the same price a mid drive hardtail from a reputable brand. I would pass on this, it looks like it's something capable, but the components are all pretty low end.

Same, I grew up in a medium size town but for some reason there was a massive population of teens born between 1979 and 1985. There was nothing much to do except drink, drugs, party, screw, fight, and hang around random spots around town. We also had a lot of crazy parties in the woods with hundreds of people that would get out of control. It wasn't exactly like kids because it wasn't in a big city, but the overall atmosphere and attitudes were the same.

This guy clearly is lacking the knowledge and skills to build something that has the potential to injure or kill him if done incorrectly. I get that we all have to start somewhere, but this isn't it. If you don't know how to remove a freewheel or understand drop out standards, you have no business building an e-bike capable of 30+ mph.

Not an owner, but you don't have to be one to have opinions about it if you know how e-bikes work and what to look for. The first thing that gives me pause is the fact that it weighs almost 100lbs but only has a 750W hub drive. That's a lot of weight along with the rider for a hub drive, I am sure it'll cruise just fine on flat terrain, but it may struggle climbing hills and forget about anything steep. I think that platform would be much better off with a mid drive due to the gearing benefits which would move that beast up a hill much easier. The other things I am noticing are that it doesn't list what brand and model components it has beyond "hydraulic disc brakes" and "Shimano 7-speed drivetrain". From what I can see it has 2-piston hydraulic brakes, much better than cable brakes, but that's still a very heavy bike that would benefit from 4-piston brakes and larger rotors. Stopping a heavy bike that can reach 28mph takes a good amount of force. I would want beefier brakes than that. Also, it has a what appears to be a Shimano freewheel, and most likely a very bottom level Tourney derailleur and shifter. This means if you ever want a wider range drivetrain, you're SOL without replacing the entire rear wheel with something that has a freehub to support a cassette. Aside from the rare and expensive exceptions, freewheels max out at a 34T cog size, where cassettes go up to 52T. The tourney derailleur will shift gears, but it's not very robust with cheap plasticky materials. They don't list any details on what motor they use, no information about the suspension fork which means it's most likely a very low end coil fork. That's probably fine for a fat bike since the tires are the primary suspension, but an air fork is significantly better in almost every way. It does have decent battery capacity and claims to be UL listed, so that's good, and they do seem to have a decent amount of good reviews, but probably from people who don't have experience with anything else to compare it to. It doesn't appear to have many proprietary components which means you should be able to keep it running if you're handy and have access to tools. It also could potentially be upgraded, but you'd end up spending more in the long run while ending up with poorer performance than if you just saved up and bought something a little higher end. I am not sure what you're budget is, but from what I can see you are looking at spending around $1600 on this, that's not far off from a much nicer mid-drive bike from a reputable brand. If you don't need a fat bike, you could get a decently equipped mid-drive E-MTB for ~$2-3K that will have better components, a better drive system, better warranty support, and better overall performance.

Yes, but for the love of safety, please figure out a better stem setup than whatever adapter/riser/adjustable mess you currently have on it. That's the only thing controlling what direction your bike is heading in, and I wouldn't trust that when zipping along at 20mph+!