Is this clear ok to use on headlights?
Posted by SeymourBoobeez@reddit | projectcar | View on Reddit | 33 comments
Going to wet sand 400, 600 and 2000 then was planning on using this.
keboh@reddit
Just as a note, jumping from 600 to 2000 isn’t going to work. You need to step up probably to 800, 1000, 1500 between those grits to get scratches out… IF your goal is to sand up to 2000.
Check the instructions on the can, it usually will give you info about what grit to sand to so that you get optimal adhesion. I bet it’s only like 600.
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
Good to know, I was just going based off a YT video I watched quick. I did think it was weird he went 800 then 2000, I know you’re supposed to work your way up
unmanipinfo@reddit
You work your way up if you're polishing the lights, not reapplying the clear
LakeLifeTL@reddit
Absolutely. Make sure to cover the entire car with plastic sheets to avoid the overspray, because it'll get all over and be a mess.
QuiickLime@reddit
I would definitely pull the headlights before spraying them with 2K. Usually only takes 15 minutes each or less and makes the prep work so much easier.
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
So just 600 then 800 then clear?
LakeLifeTL@reddit
Honestly, going over them with 600 and then the clear coat would be good. The clear will smooth out the imperfections from the sandpaper. What you need to be more concerned about is good adhesion.
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
Gotcha, maybe I’ll give that a shot. The videos I’m watching, these guys are going up to 2000, one guy went up to 3000!
SleepLabs@reddit
I did this to my headlights with a high end clear. One small rock caused the adhesion to break. Now I'm back to square 1 with a flakey headlight.
Spotttty@reddit
Just need a 3M film after the clear cures.
SleepLabs@reddit
I should have! Some days you win, some days you learn.
LakeLifeTL@reddit
If you're trying to polish them, that's one thing. You'll never see anyone going with 2k or 3k sandpaper as prep before paint.
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
Def not trying to polish, just want them to look better. They’re just yellow and hazy but no cracking
react0r@reddit
What others said about adhesion. I’d probably stop at 400.
Tastesicle@reddit
Came to say, most paints recommend 400. 400 is enough for mechanical adhesion. Chemical adhesion comes during the tack phase of the first layer, then cure, then cut to smooth with finer grits and wax. Or just 400, lay down, wait 15, lay again.
DefMech@reddit
Without a clear coat or ppf, how do you prevent the clouding from coming right back after a few months in the sun?
CandIebread@reddit
Yes but you really want to add an adhesion promoter also. Bulldog is a great option available at many parts stores.
You would just put a layer down prior to spraying this. And if you want an off the shelf alternative to waiting for this to come in, Upol makes a great 2k rattle clear
justLeDuck@reddit
That 2k stuff is great, just keep in mind if you don’t use the whole can it will go bad after you mix it together so maybe see if you can find a smaller can if you don’t wanna waste your money. Im planning to use the spray max 2k clear coat to redo some parts of the clear coat on my car
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
I’m actually thinking I’ll just grab a lvlp sprayer and get like a quart or whatever, so I can do a couple more down the road if need be.
I’m thinking this should be a good start? Not sure about that clear, but the rest of them were a little expensive for me to learn on. But if a better 2k will give me a better experience, I’m not against spending a few extra bucks
justLeDuck@reddit
That could work, I ain’t got a clue how the sprayers work and what all you need for those, though my understanding is that it’s a lot and can be expensive. The nice thing is that you get to keep tools if you wanted to ever do more painting projects so that’s cool
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
I’ve got somebody to help guide me so thank heavens for that. And exactly my point, I’ll get to keep the tools and not have to keep buying spray cans! I say if I use it 3 times, it was worth it lol
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
I’m actually thinking I’ll just grab a lvlp sprayer and get like a quart or whatever, so I can do a couple more down the road if need be. I want to get into paint and bodywork so it’ll be a good place to start. Only thing that sucks is all I have is a driveway, no garage.
No-Enthusiasm3579@reddit
This is fast 400grit wet sand with a palm sander and rattle can clear
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
Mine are also a little worse than what you started with, more yellow.
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
Just 400? Did you start lower?
johnwalkr@reddit
Great choice, since it is 2K (2 parts -base and hardener) it's going to be way harder after curing than anything you can buy at the hardware store or typical Autozone-type store.
johnniechimpo@reddit
I might look for something that is UV safe too.
johnwalkr@reddit
Almost anything 2K (meaning 2 parts, a base and hardener) is going to be highly UV resistant and also cure very hard. Ironically anything labelled UV resistant on the front is more likely to be less UV-resistant than this clearcoat.
Ok-Combination9575@reddit
I used this after a quick 1500 grit and isopropyl and my headlights have looked brand new since then (1 year)
SeymourBoobeez@reddit (OP)
Only 1500? Or did you start lower?
Ok-Combination9575@reddit
Mine were only lightly oxidized. The more oxidized they are, the lower you will have to start. Dont be surprised if you have to go as low as 400 to start.
DJErikD@reddit
Yes, although I use SprayMax instead.
justin_memer@reddit
I think so, but it I think it works better if you don't polish the lights so the clear coat can fill in the scratches and bond better to the plastic. I would definitely try this out on a spare piece of plastic first, however.