PIM/Proride 17w2c battery connector on EV013-AA4021
Posted by Smorge123@reddit | ebikes | View on Reddit | 3 comments
Hey guys, I just got my hands on a Polaris Terrain/PIM Terrain from the end days when they were selling stock off. It has this funky Evantage hub motor and this 44v 6ah Polaris/PIM battery that has, according to one review page, limno2 chemistry cells. The battery connects to the frame with a 17w2c connector and I was wondering if anyone had a pinout for it, or interest in a pinout for it? I will be using the old batteries case to house the new 13s2p battery unless I can find a really good reason to stick with the 44v it had originally. My current theory for what is inside is a 12s2p with 18650 cells but idk maybe i'll open it and find some weird prismatic battery or fakes. Earlier batteries sold by Polaris/PIM were 44v 6ah which leads me to believe this 8ah one was part of a switch from 3000mah to some 3500mah cell. Later I will be opening up the motor to bypass the inbuilt "controller" and send the phase and hall wires to a baserunner or something via a L9 or L10 connector so I can interrogate the motor and tune it to run on the more standard 48v setup. If any of you are sitting on a bike with an evantage motor and a proride battery and you have the pinout on the 17w2c already, or if you are interested in knowing, PLEASE reach out. My primary goals for this project are to spend <$1000 and to end up with a reliable and safe class 2 or 3 ebike equipped with regenerative braking that is above and beyond modern ebike safety standards. My secondary goals for this project are to do so in a way that models sustainability and reuses/recycles as much of the donor bike as possible, and to impress my girlfriend.
Dandyboi@reddit
Hi, did you ever get anywhere on this project? Do you happen to know the pinout for the connector?
Smorge123@reddit (OP)
There are little microcontrollers in everything on the bike, I ended up ripping out the motor controller that is inside the hub motor, rebuilding the battery to not use the factory bms, and switching to an off the shelf motor controller. It was pretty hairy and I haven't ridden the bike, from factory the connector to the hub motor gets 2DC pins stright from the bms and when I took out the motor controller and rewired the motor to an l10 plug it was kind of too much wire than would fit down the shaft easily and so I don't really trust it. The project died when my gf got an e-scooter than she is much happier with and we moved to Seattle where she really needs something that folds so she can take it on the lightrail. For what it's worth the connector itself is a 17w2c I think sold by Newark, I didn't write down the pinout in a place I can find but the two big pins are DC power to/from the battery and the mcus in the BMS is a STC15F408AD. I didn't do much investigation beyond that since my BMS was fried before I got it and I didn't want to go down that rabbit hole. I talked to a guy at Northeast Battery Systems who has seen a lot of these and according to him the MOSFETs in the battery internally shorting and killing the whole unit is a fairly common issue. I made a 12s4p battery for mine with 18650s when I redid it and got a chinese bms from a brand I like and am familiar with, the guy at Northeast Battery Systems has rebuilt one with a 12s3p configuration of 21700s which is probably the better way to do it if you go down that route. These bikes kind of suck there's a reason they went out of business but if you want a project that really tests your mettle, consider boring out the shaft a bit before you try to run 3 phase down it, or you'll have to figure out how to talk to their proprietary motor controller that's wrapped around the axle inside the hub motor assembly.
Dandyboi@reddit
Wow, thank you so much for all the information! I found this bike very cheap without a battery so I was already planning on replacing that with a standard 48V battery. I'm honestly planning on using the frame and hub motor but little else from this stock bike. I'm assuming that all the sensors and display are all proprietary so I'll replace what I actually want with off the shelf options. How hard is it to take the controller out of the hub motor? I'm assuming that it's just a 3 phase BLDC motor so finding and running the phase and hall sensor wire shouldn't be too bad right?