Dream car: obtained.
Posted by AdDue9654@reddit | projectcar | View on Reddit | 34 comments
My new to me 1970 Ford Mustang Mach 1 M-code fastback!
Equipped with the 351 Cleveland 4V, 11:01 compression and rated at 300HP according to Ford.
She’s got rust in the drip sills at the trunk, surrounding the rear windshield, rust holes on the quarter panels and small rust holes on the A pillar; but I’ve got nothing but time and a burning desire to work on this thing.
rabbitee2@reddit
Most people tackle the body dust first but that 351C4V deserves a compression test before anything those quench chambers crack quietly.dynosty or prestige motor sports can handle cleveland bottom end work
siresword@reddit
Congrats, on finding what is also my dream car! I love the Cleveland, factory 11:1 compression was just insane. I used to have one that I was going to put in a project but had to give it up due to financial pressure, but I did an absolutely autistic level of research into the Cleveland's so I can confidently offer some advice.
1 problem with them is oiling. They have a "simplified" top end oiling system vs other engines, net result of this is the cam and top end get way more oil than they need while main bearings 2-5 (oiling goes through main #1 on its way to the cam so it's usually fine) get starved, leading the the C and M engines well deserved reputation for fast wearing bearings. Absolute best fix is to sleeve the lifter bores, giving each only a 1/16 feed hole. This keeps pressure in the bottom of the oil system instead of all the oil getting dumped into the top end. You can also put restrictors in the passages between the cam and main bearings, but that's more a bandaid fix than a real solution, but if your budget is tight it's an option.
As far as performance mods, you can't go wrong with an aluminum intake to cut weight if nothing else. For exhaust, Tri-Y headers sound absolutely amazing on Cleveland's, buy all the ones I've seen are quite pricy. Cleveland's also share dimensionally identical lifters to Windsor engines, so If you do the lifter bore sleeves you can just use much cheaper and more available Windsor lifters to do a roller conversion. You can find Cleveland specific roller conversion cams pretty easily too (I know comp cams makes a few).
Just be aware you cant use Windsor lifters without doing the sleeves since Cleveland lifters have extra restrictors in them to try and alleviate the afformemtioned top end oil flooding issues. If you put Windsor lifters in a Cleveland without the sleeves it'll apparently pump the entire contents of you oil pan into the valve covers.
If you want more info/advice I highly recommend checking out the tech articles on the Pantera forum, those guys have spent the time and money in real racing environments to learn all the real tips and tricks for these engines and are not shy about sharing it.
AdDue9654@reddit (OP)
Awesome advice thanks so much! I’m learning about the flaws of the Cleveland haha and have heard about its oiling issues, but it’s good to hear there’s some fixes! I’m screenshotting your comment and saving it in my Mustang album haha.
It’s never too late to buy another stang! I’m lucky I got this at 25 years old
Squidking1000@reddit
The "redline rebuild" series on the Pantera on Youtube went into doing the lifter bore sleeves with restrictors on it's 351C and you can do it with simple hand tools (which was surprising, I figured machine shop only type work). They also made good power with really minimal money/ effort.
siresword@reddit
Good episode, but the bit they skipped over is that the stuff you need to do it is pretty much "one time use" for the average jo. Yes, you can buy the kit and do it with a plug in drill yourself, but it's (last I checked like 8 years ago, it's probably a fair bit more now) like $500 USD for the kit. Or you could just find a machine shop that has reamers and pay them properly the same or less to do it professionally. The bushings themselves are super cheap, it's the tools that are the big cost.
Squidking1000@reddit
Dude it costs more then $500 to walk into a machine shop these days. I just had a $3K bill for line honing, boring and balancing a crank. For $575 I'd be happy to do this myself and I'll be shocked if the machine shop would charge less then a grand to do it.
https://wydendorfmachine.com/kitb.html?kitid=2
81amarok@reddit
Thats awesome advice and sucks you had to give up part of your dream. Hope you'll also be able to get your own. Dope choice op. 10/10 would also love to own!
FaceRehley@reddit
That thing is so badass, please consider fixing rust etc and just clear coating it. That patina looks evil, in the all the best ways.
veteranCormorent33@reddit
Nice pickup, mate. That 351 Cleveland's a beaut. Given the rust spots you've mentioned, tackling the A-pillar and rear windshield area first will be key to stopping it spreading. Get it properly assessed by a panel beater who knows their classics before you dive too deep into the mechanicals.
VTKegger@reddit
Thought I was looking at a screenshot from one of the Flatout games at first! Awesome car!
Agil-lite@reddit
Let's see some more.
JudenVixen@reddit
Looks hard as fuck.
CalicoCuts@reddit
Nice!
Analog_Hobbit@reddit
Anger the normies. Keep the patina, get her running like a top, and take her to shows. Ol’ Dirtstang.
NoXidCat@reddit
Nice project! (My favorite would be a 69 with the vents/scoops on the rear quarter.)
My first car was a 70 Cougar XR7 with a 351C (with lopey aftermarket cam). That thing screamed :-) Went 145 once (3 in the morning on brand new rural 4-lane black top). Black with green pearl.
Yes, rust in the trunk was a thing for me even in 1979 (and I do NOT live in the rust belt).
Have fun :-)
K21Watzz@reddit
This is so sweet ! Good luck on the journey ahead man
zeed88@reddit
Nice, congrats, now you must see roadkill episode where they go the discustang 🤭, David was screaming hantavirus all that episode
Temporary-Job-9049@reddit
Bad. Ass. lol
samwe@reddit
That is correct.
NuclearWasteland@reddit
Yeah don't paint it. It looks tough as is.
Local_Bobcat_2000@reddit
I’d replace the suspension but not upgrade it with new race track parts. You’ll have a car that handles like an old mustang on the track and very harsh/uncomfortable track car on the street. But definitely do the brakes and steering upgrades.
fiero-fire@reddit
Damn looks like David Frieburgers Disgustang. Even has the same dent in the bumper.
That's my personal favorite mustang body style, get her going and enjoy brother
CombOdd2117@reddit
I’d get that mechanically sound and drive her just like that for a while. Beautiful! Pro life tip from an olds timer: having an amazing and flawless paint job is wonderful…but not as fun. I love driving my cars without the worry of some jerk putting a ding or scratch in it. Enjoy it! Congrats
Klo187@reddit
I know it’s not the disgustang, but you almost fooled me
Solid_Enthusiasm550@reddit
I was like, that doesn't look like a BOSS 429?🤔
WatIsLasagne@reddit
Tuff
scoobyless@reddit
Hell yeah
obay104@reddit
It's an amazing thing to find your dream muscle car. I've recently come back around to appreciate the 70 GS 455 clone I've had sitting for way too long. Keep posting updates! I'd love to see how it progresses.
gamepro2002@reddit
Hell yeah man, this thing is already cool, can't wait to see it finished
KeithMyArthe@reddit
Agree, looking forward to progress pics 👍
Ziggysan@reddit
Definitely check behind the outer body panels for rust. I started cutting away rust spots to patch the rear QPs on my '69 and revealed a huge amount of serious corrosion damage on the support structure. The hollow spaces on the 68-70 Mustangs are notorious for retaining moisture, if not straight up standing water.
Sixfourstout on Instagram has an excellent breakdown of how they're fixing similar design issues on their truck.
M3nace_E36_98@reddit
Congrats
Yelish_Dion@reddit
Perfect 🤘
BKEDDIE82@reddit
Congratulations.