Moral dilemma
Posted by 1101165@reddit | projectcar | View on Reddit | 77 comments
the toyota is fried. im not paying for someone to fix it. question is should I sand it and spray paint it or should I teach myself how to wrap it, having never done so before or maybe theres a third option somewhere. let me know your thoughts
nopester24@reddit
Both are pretty easy man. Remember, kits just paint. Wrapping is fun too but it's a pain in the arse if you don't do it right and have to start again. Just takes some practice
PCPaiN@reddit
Bed liner that biii
itz_yoourboi08@reddit
Leave it like that bro ultimate sleeper
BuildBreakFix@reddit
Rustoleum and a paint roller. Done.
Only partially kidding….
Haunting_Dragonfly_3@reddit
That hood has to go to bare metal, regardless.
3_14159td@reddit
Wrap will fail quickly if you try to go over that untouched.
Mr0lsen@reddit
Stupid question, but cant you just sand and buff it smooth before the wrap?
o_fuck@reddit
Yeah but that's what takes most of the effort in a paint job, might as well paint if you're putting all the effort into prep.
Mr0lsen@reddit
That seems like a bit of an exaggeration. You’re skipping masking, you don’t really need to degrease, you don’t have to apply multiple coats of primer, color and clear with sanding in-between. You don’t have to avoid runs and orange peal, or wear PPE the whole time, or deal with pot time.
Seems like there are a ton of benefits to just doing a wrap over paint.
calzonegolem@reddit
You definitely need to degrease before wrapping.
Mr0lsen@reddit
Yep my bad, I guess I just assumed it was a less intense prep than trying to avoid fisheyes in paint.
themwnn@reddit
Even an average paint job will look good from 2 meters away and last longer than a wrap
calzonegolem@reddit
You're right on the rest of it though for sure.
RiftHunter4@reddit
The painting part of painting is the fun part.
Sea-Monk549@reddit
It’s days and days of blocking and prepping and taping for about 15 actual minutes of painting.
toomuchweld@reddit
zeecok@reddit
Yes you absolutely can.
1101165@reddit (OP)
do i sand it first
geoff1036@reddit
Probably have to sand and clear coat because you'd have open metal at that point and that's how you rust the hood out.
So sand -> clear coat (at least) -> wrap.
Mr0lsen@reddit
Why not sand -> primer -> wrap?
ghostone986@reddit
100% this. Can for sure sand smooth and primer then wrap. Finish is already toast. Sanding is the easiest part of doing a quality paint job that will outlast a 3-5 yr wrap job.
geoff1036@reddit
Could do but I think if we're just going for protecting the metal, clear coat would be better. Clear coat is more of a sealer, whereas primer is still porous. That's why you always put clear on last, it protects everything under it from sun/air/rust.
Mr0lsen@reddit
I always thought the main purpose of primer was more as an adhesion promoter for the bare metal.
geoff1036@reddit
I think that too. Gives it an evenly color and textured surface to apply to, evening the color and application of the paint applied to it.
Yimmelo@reddit
Would the wrap function as a clear coat while applied or is that porous as well?
geoff1036@reddit
A theoretically perfect wrap would probably help but I suspect it would still be too porous to work, not to mention that wraps themselves can damage the clear coat.
punkassjim@reddit
The cracked/bubbled spot on the trunk would be the trickiest spot, but I think the rest of it could be done without exposing bare metal. Wet-sanding with a fine-grit pad could be enough to remove the crispy sheen of dead clearcoat, and you just go carefully to make sure you don't burn through the paint layer.
But yeah, that spot on the trunk with hard edges where the clearcot peeled away would be almost impossible to fully smooth out without exposing bare metal. But really, if you're gonna wrap it and you want a reasonably smooth wrap — and you actually value your time — it might just make sense to buy a spare trunk and/or hood from the junkyard if you can find one in better shape. And hope your roof isn't too bad. 😅
Guac_in_my_rarri@reddit
And it will show through the wrap.
Far-Plastic-4171@reddit
Far-Plastic-4171@reddit
panic82@reddit
Do you have any pics after it was buffed? Did you only put down a clear coat, or did you sand it down and put down some black paint too? I'm considering rattle canning my 91 mustang. I know it's not ideal, but pretty sure it would be an improvement over what I got now.
Far-Plastic-4171@reddit
Trunk looked at least as bad as yours. You could see where the previous layer of clear ended. Tried hard not to sand thru the color coat. I did not add any additional color but you can. And it could potentially be a touch off. Took it from a 50' car to a 15' car. Prep is critical but easy to sand thru.
1101165@reddit (OP)
looks great, what spray did you use?
Far-Plastic-4171@reddit
Mask is Mandatory. Nasty stuff. Make sure you mask off entire car. If you are doing just the rear the dust from spraying will coat your windshield.
RecursiveDelta@reddit
Not a painter or a body guy, but...
Honestly, if you have an orbital sander, time, and some money to throw at it I'd spray can paint it. You can use high build primer to deal with spots that are difficult to get out with sanding alone, or where you are or would be close to metal. As long as you'll be happy without a gloss finish, you can get really good results without a ton of skill (but lots of effort) and cheap rattle cans. Color choice is important though - matte white does magic to hide imperfections, gloss black shows everything. Thankfully a rattle can single stage is never going to be very gloss, so simply choosing not-black will probably come out decent. And worst case, if you're not happy with a panel just sand and try again.
My results (before, after, now):
https://imgur.com/a/cwazCWp
panic82@reddit
Nice so you just did rattle cans and it's been looking good for a couple years huh? Did you prime the whole thing or put any clear coat on after? Is it just a single coat of paint or did you go over it a few times? And how many cans you think you used?
I've been thinking about rattle canning my 91 mustang. Every panel is a slightly different red color. And certain parts are just primer gray.
I have a compressor but it's too small to consider a paint gun I think, so I think rattle cans are the way to go.
RecursiveDelta@reddit
Yeah, the key factor is if it currently looks terrible (like my truck did) you really can't make it worse. If nothing else, I wanted my truck to be a single color, rather than 3. I only bothered to primer bare metal spots.
Hit the whole truck with the orbital sander down to 400, basically if you can feel something with your eyes closed you'll see it through the paint.
Wipe it clean with acetone.
Super light dusting coat of paint first (basically just a light mist everywhere), and then a lightish coverage coat, and a final heavy coat to get the paint to 'wet out' so it looks like one smooth wet surface, but not to the point of runs.
I bought 12 cans of Rust-Oleum 7538838-6PK Professional High Performance Enamel Spray Paint, 15 Oz, Gloss Hunter Green, 6 Pack
I have at least a few left (maybe 3?). That came out as somewhere between matte and gloss from the perspective of single stage automotive paint (think pre 90's cars). You could probably buff it to a higher gloss, or cover it with an automotive clear (which I had always planned to do if I wanted it to be more gloss). I'm super happy with the semi-matte though, because it makes all the little imperfections really hard to see unless you go put your eyeball right on it.
Finish looks pretty much exactly the same 2 years later. When I painted it I lived in NJ and the truck got covered in quarry dust every day from blasting 1/4 mile from my house. That stuff destroys clear coats. Last June I moved to NC, and the truck has been outside the whole time since I painted it - needless to say it's holding up way better than I expected.
panic82@reddit
Thanks for the info! I'm seriously considering this.
Anything would be an improvement over what I have now.
No_Ad_212@reddit
If you don’t have an adequate air compressor/paint tools, you can get a decent finish with rattle cans. Look up Moore Motorsport Garage on YouTube. I think his results look pretty good.
If you want to learn how to properly paint, look up “Paint Society”
TealPotato@reddit
Have you considered getting a quote from Maaco or any other local shop?
I'd ask if I could sand and prep the areas myself to save money, and have the spray.
punkassjim@reddit
I checked with a well-regarded Maaco here in the bay area, and for a 2-stage full body paint it was still gonna be $4000-6000. They didn't seem keen on me doing any of the prep work. Might be different further away from major metro areas.
UberWagen@reddit
You don't need a 2 stage for this. A single stage urethane in GA for a similar size car is like $1300. Shop around!
Cars_Music_GoodTimes@reddit
To get a reasonable price, look for a small shop in a working class neighborhood. I know a few shops near me who would likely paint those two panels for $600-$700 cash
TealPotato@reddit
I figure that the paint matching would be worth it, miles ahead of any rattle-can.
If you're going to spend any time/money/effort and if OP plans on keeping the car, it might as well look like something.
TextJunior@reddit
Third option: let it patina as it already is, sleeper go brrrr
punkassjim@reddit
I really wish I could roll like that. The fade and peel on my mk3 GTI is pretty spectacular, I gotta admit. But I'm just so ashamed that I neglected my baby so badly, I'm eager to get her back to super polished shape. Even if it's a wrap.
cheffernan@reddit
That quarter panel sure looks good though
littlefoot97@reddit
Let errr riddeee
Professional_Echo438@reddit
Carbon-Foil?
RovDer@reddit
Use a scuff pad where the clear is peeling then wet sand to smooth it out and spray some new clear over it. I had some decent luck as a temporary fix to make it look good at a glance until I could do a proper paint job
MadManAndrew@reddit
Look up Poppy’s patina
doubledongdingus@reddit
You can do a lot with a cheapo harbor freight buffing wheel ans some compound. Cheaper than a wrap and a lot easier than sanding and spraying
zpodsix@reddit
Paint it. Hood and trunk are easy enough to take off and paint away from car so no masking would be needed.
a_few_nugs@reddit
Buy a new hood and trunk lid from the junkyard
fmeupfam14@reddit
Join the club
malcrox@reddit
Spray paint it Tonka truck yellow
Far-Wave-821@reddit
Cost wise, i actually think this is a great candidate for a wrap.
YawnY86@reddit
Went through a similar thing with my 91 plymouth laser. Lots of sanding, some colour matched spray paint and clear coat. Rattled canned the whole car, polished it, and it only cost me a like $150
Brasenshok@reddit
Could try the ol tall Rust-Oleum can job.
Mission_Abrocoma_193@reddit
Time to wrap …
Big-Energy-3363@reddit
Eastwood roll on epoxy primer, and done!
EarlyCuylersCousin@reddit
I mean it may be a dilemma but it’s not a moral dilemma. 😂
PomegranateStill3626@reddit
As a shitbox enjoyer I understand the urge to put money in this but you probably shouldn’t like just change the fucking oil out gas in it l and drive it into the ground, it won’t look good from any angle but if you insist just spray it with the cheapest color matched ish paint you can get your hands on
eejjkk@reddit
Not all questions are moral dilemmas.
Apart_Horror8148@reddit
Yeah I thought he was going to say hes gonna fake doll it up and flip it
Skreerah@reddit
Dawg that’s not the paint that’s the clear coat, I would try to put some more clear coat on it and shine it up
moonlite_equilibrium@reddit
Ima be so for real itll less rigged if you just leave the shit alone.
But i also live in the desert where im used to see clear failure. We just keep throwing more and performance and let the outside be lol.
ineyeseekay@reddit
I propose option 3: preserving what's there as best you can and do everything else, saving the paint for last.
TealPotato@reddit
One other thought: can you find any used black ones from a local recycler/ salvage yard?
HeadOfMax@reddit
Roller paint it with rust oleum.
Sharksonaplain@reddit
Yup, rustoleum, automotive medium paint thinner and automotive paint hardener either rolled on with a foam roller or sprayed
totaltomination@reddit
If sanding and spraying is an option on the table, always that first especially if you find a cheap paint. Wrap won't work on fucked paint
cdsbigsby@reddit
You can actually make a spray paint job look surprisingly good on a car if you're willing to do a ton of sanding. There are tutorials on YouTube.
Dr_Ramekins_MD@reddit
Especially if you get a decent 2-part spray paint and not just cheap Rustoleum spraybombs from the store. I've done it on aftermarket bumpers and it came out pretty good. Not perfect, but looks decent from a few feet away and cost way less than a shop
daRaam@reddit
At this point a paint roller and some gloss would work.
Doesn't look like its worth spraying.
You could wrap it yourself its the awkward corners and stuff that are hard not the main. Panels.
Buy some cheap wrap or roller paint it or sand a bit and buy some spray lacquer and just go at it.
whoamannipples@reddit
My bf spray painted his whole bumper in 2020 and it’s still white🤷🏻♀️ It’s got some cracks in it now but it looked genuinely great for the first few years
isaacmckinney@reddit
It already looks terrible it would be hard to make it worse. Start with the cheapest option that you feel confident in being able to at least achieve an acceptable final product with. If you end up not liking it your only out maybe a couple hundred bucks.