Thoughts on this build? (7800X3D + RTX 5070 Ti)
Posted by Trick-Education7589@reddit | buildapc | View on Reddit | 52 comments
| AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D |
|---|
| ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III Pro 360 |
| ASUS TUF GAMING B850-E WIFI |
| G.Skill Flare X5 2X16GB DDR5-6000 |
| Gigabyte RTX 5070 Ti GAMING OC 16G or even WINDFORCE SFF ? |
| Lian Li O11 Dynamic Mini V2 |
| Corsair RM1000x (2024) |
| Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB |
Hey everyone! I'm planning a new build for 2K OLED gaming and productivity. Before I hit the "buy" button, I wanted to get a second pair of eyes on these parts.
Does this look well balanced? Any potential issues or better alternatives I should consider? Thanks in advance!
psimwork@reddit
Completely unnecessary for the 7800X3D, but you do you.
Don't overpay for brand. If you find a kit for CL36 or less for less money at 6000MHz and it supports EXPO, then go that direction.
Totally overkill, be sure to look at 850W units, and be sure to look at something like the SPL tier list. The RM1000X is a fine unit. But a Montech Century II 850W would likewise be fine.
Almost certainly absurdly overpriced. This is a unit that people continue to pay for and for the life of me, I have ZERO idea as to why.
Trick-Education7589@reddit (OP)
i take this psu and aio because i want in future only upgrade gpu amd cpu
T2_daBest@reddit
Yeah literally just those notes he posted above but other than that if it's what you want just get it
metamorfozaa@reddit
I bet your future-proof AIO will die years before your GPU or CPU needs upgrading. Kekw
fsychii@reddit
For me it took about 5-6 years
psimwork@reddit
That... doesn't actually mean anything, nor is it really relevant.
Anon0924@reddit
Buying overkill parts to go with a future upgrade makes perfect sense.
metamorfozaa@reddit
Haha good point
Trick-Education7589@reddit (OP)
about ssd what do you suggest and ram
aragorn18@reddit
SSD suggestion would depend on your country of purchase.
RAM: Cheapest DDR5-6000 kit you can find.
WulfTheSaxon@reddit
I’d say the cheapest 1.35V or less DDR5-6000 CL30. That voltage will ensure longevity, and per PCPP it’s only an extra $15 on top of the $365 for the cheapest kit at the moment.
Ping u/Trick-Education7589
aragorn18@reddit
You probably can't even measure the difference between CL30 and CL36 in benchmarks when combined with an X3D CPU.
WulfTheSaxon@reddit
Thing is, this is already a $2700 PC, so every extra 1% FPS is worth $27. If I extrapolate from Techspot’s testing of CL40 vs CL30 with a 7950X3D, that might be a 2% FPS improvement for $15.
jekpopulous2@reddit
For SSD check out the Crucial P5 Plus and the Teamgroup A440 Pro. They both have DRAM cache and excellent controllers for like half the price of a Samsung 990 Pro. Outside of running benchmarks you’ll never notice a difference.
lleyton05@reddit
Sure it does and sure it is. Trying to future proof with an aio is kinda dumb but future proofing with a high wattage PSU is really common.
psimwork@reddit
Common doesn't mean it's a good idea. Going a certain percentage over what is needed in a given build makes some sense - but 1000W in this case is just unnecessary. You have a graphics card that generally pulls 300W and a CPU that pulls about 80W under most situations. A 750W would be a good fit for their needs. An 850W would make sense as far as "future proof". But at 1000W - and especially THAT 1000W unit doesn't make a ton of sense to me with this build.
The market in which OP is shopping does have an impact. If the RM1000X is cheaper than a well-made 850W, then by all means grab the 1000W unit.
I also caution folks against trying to "future proof" their power supplies given that Nvidia is continuing to experience issues with the 12VHPWR/12V2X6 connector. Given how quickly they were willing to abandon the 12-Pin Micro-fit connector that they had on the RTX 3000-series units, anyone who tried to buy a power supply that came with that connector (which in-fairness, I can't think of any off-hand) effectively got screwed. We're unfortunately no longer in a situation where 8-pin PCIe is a given and buying a power supply with 4 connectors (or more) is a guarantee that the power supply you buy today will be something that works for your needs with your next upgrade(s).
Of course, I'll also go to my grave with the opinion that "future proof" is something that can only realistically be achieved upon reflection - and not something you can plan for.
lleyton05@reddit
Yea, I also think future proofing with your PSU made more sense before atx 3.1 bc those can handle crazy transient power spikes, those older psus needed more headroom bc they couldn’t handle those spikes
HEBushido@reddit
The 5080 doesn't need a 1000W psu. You'd need that for a 5090.
FromDeepestFathom@reddit
They’ll release 60xx eventually….
Destructo-Bear@reddit
No I think they cancelled that
Fredasa@reddit
I was going to reply with pretty much the same. Especially when it comes to the casual confidence of having an adequate number and type of cables, which the RM1000x will have. The difference in price is trivial, especially compared to having to swap later. And I personally think the peace of mind of Corsair's well-regarded CS is worth it as well.
(And I'm not some Corsair stan or anything. I like to make sure everyone knows that their RAM is the only RAM I've ever had go bad on me, and it happened both times I bought RAM from them.)
Statharas@reddit
I have the same cooler for my 9800x3d, since I was going to make a fan monster, I just used that and it's worked much better than I expected.
ParticularBeyond9@reddit
Off topic: why do you love undervolting
psimwork@reddit
What's not to love? Not all hardware will respond the same way mine did when I got my flair (had a 12th gen Intel CPU and an RTX 3080 10GB, both of which were pretty power-inefficient), but if you can reduce your power consumption of the machine by a significant amount (in my case I was able to drop the power consumption by almost 40%), and you give up a very minor amount of performance (I gave up something like 8%, but it doesn't actually HAVE to be any performance lost - it's possible to both undervolt AND overclock), and literally the only risk to the operation is time-in-testing.... seems like there's a lot to love there.
ParticularBeyond9@reddit
Asking because I haven't tried yet. If I can make the PC noise go down that would be a win for me. I have a i5-12400f and RTX 4060. Can you recommend something to help me get started?
Liesthroughisteeth@reddit
Nvidias min recommendation is 700 watts.
Why do people say things like get the smallest PSU you can get away with...perhaps?
I mean if a person wants a good PSU that doesn't need to push itself , so it can run cooler and quieter, what's it to you? PSUs typically run the most efficiently in the middle pf tjheir range and provide better current conditioning as well. There's also the fact, if a PSU is going to fail it's going t6o fail while being pushed.
psimwork@reddit
Nvidia bases their recommendation based on total system usage. This has to include machines that use abnormally high amounts of energy (like say a 14900K), which is not the case here.
More like, use the right tool for the job. The issue I have with the selection of the RM1000X is as much Corsair very commonly carries as much brand tax as I have issues with the wattage rating.
This machine, as-built will consume roughly 450W of power under full load. A 1000W power supply providing 450W of power will not be significantly cooler nor quieter than a well-made 850W unit.
While this is true, this is WILDLY overstated.
An 80+ Gold power supply will run at its most efficient at 50% load (90% conversion from wall power to DC Loads). It is most inefficient at 20% and 100% draw, where it runs 87% efficient.
With a 450W load, an 850W unit will run at 52% load, versus 45% load with a 1000W unit. The irony here is that the deviation off of the "ideal" 50% is greater with a 1000W power supply.
All of that said, the difference will be so minor as to be meaningless - even if we assume that the 1000W unit will be running at the most inefficient way possible, the draw of 450W from the wall + waste due to inefficiency will be 517W. With the 850W, assuming it's the most efficient possible, will pull.. 500W. A difference of 17W, which is so small it might not as well be mentioned.
An 850W unit pulling 450W is not "being pushed."
kocham_cycki@reddit
Elite processor and GPU pairing. I cool mine with an deepcool assassin iv and get no more than 65 in games.
RepresentativeArm656@reddit
Hit button "buy" ...👍👍👍
Admirable_Bug_7867@reddit
Maybe think about getting a different monitor for productivity, I heard there can be some issues with text clarity and you will just burn in the monitor with repetitive productivity tasks
kokosgt@reddit
Burn in is not nearly as important as it used to be. Text clarity also seems exaggerated. Saying as someone who works on 4k OLED 10h a day.
beirch@reddit
Text clarity is mostly a 1440p issue. Fringing can get pretty bad at that resolution.
Admirable_Bug_7867@reddit
Ok interesting to hear, I'm thinking about getting an oled myself and some of the videos I've seen on burn in have been a little concerning, one video I watched had minor burn in after 4k hours and I was just thinking that 4k hours is actually a very low amount of time for a monitor
tranerekk@reddit
I run a 5070ti/7800x3d build. It’s pretty terrific.
Trick-Education7589@reddit (OP)
which ssd and ram do u have?
tranerekk@reddit
I’m running a pair of ADATA 2TB’s that are marketed as being for the ps5, and 32gb ddr5-6000 from Corsair
Adventurous-Ad-1786@reddit
That’s basically my exact build great build really good temps
Liesthroughisteeth@reddit
Nice built. Go for it. Nice case. I run a LAncool II and love the thing.
Inevitable_Cycle3087@reddit
if you live anywhere that a microcenter is near, look at their cpu ram mobo bundles. the one in my area has ddr5 ram in the bundles, but with prices from before the insane ram prices now. like 4-500$ off in the bundles
lancelane7@reddit
go for 850w psu and a cheaper ssd at 2tb. put that money into a 9800x3d so you dont have to upgrade for a long while. Definitely find a cheaper ram kit. Go to microcenter. Thats all the recommendations i have, similar to what others are saying. You will have a great build. I have similar and i love it dearly. If you are patient, try to find a new or barely used 5070ti on facebook marketplace maybe. If you money bags then do ya thing.
Trick-Education7589@reddit (OP)
do you have some suggestions for ram and ssd?
lancelane7@reddit
cheapest 6000mhz, cl36 or lower, ddr5 ram you can find on the market or brand new. Corsair, crucial, kingston fury, g skill. G skill seems to be really expensive rn.
for ssd, cheapest you can find at 2 tb and atleast gen 4 and youll be straight. with storage and ram right now you have to either fork out or find good deals. I got lucky and got 2tb samsung 990 evo plu on amazon for $189. Do you have microcenter close? you can get ram for basically free with their bundles. I got the 9850x3d bundle when it was $700 and had a x870 mobo
Trick-Education7589@reddit (OP)
i can buy Kingston Fury Beast DDR5 16gb x2 6000 cl36 expo for 300$ this is the lowest one the before kne was 400$
greentintedlenses@reddit
you should have bought this prebuilt man: https://old.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/1t3jncs/prebuilt_may_4th_only_cyberpower_pc_9800x3d/
Since thats expired, you could do this Ryzen 7 9850X3D, MSI MAG X870 TOMAHAWK, 32GB V-COLOR DDR5 5600, 850W ASRock - F/S - $830: https://old.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/1t2d1i0/comboryzen_7_9850x3d_msi_mag_x870_tomahawk_32gb/
lancelane7@reddit
Yeah that’s not bad in this day and age.
Fredasa@reddit
ASUS has extremely poor CS. Gigabyte's GPUs use fan braking that makes them audibly rattle (not necessarily a dealbreaker). Most of the rest is pretty much the same stuff in my current build. I also have a Gigabyte Windforce, it has to be said, though I'll consider somebody else next time, now that I know.
kokosgt@reddit
It's the reason I dropped Gigabyte for MSI.
BobLighthouse@reddit
Looks fine to me.
Going with a little overhead on the PSU is smart as the efficiency peak is pretty low, so it might run cooler and quieter than a lower wattage model, in addition to allowing for future upgrades.
That cooler will be a tight fit but it should work in that case, and you could certainly use something like a Phantom Spirit instead to save a few bucks.
Without knowing what kind of work you are likely to do it's hard to comment on the SSD, but you could possibly save some money there too.
X3D chips are pretty flexible on RAM to my understanding, so that's another place you might consider saving a few bucks.
All that said, it's pretty similar to a build I made for myself about a year ago.
You'll be having a great gaming experience at that resolution.
Just make sure to get a monitor with an adequate refresh rate lol.
prank_mark@reddit
For productivity you should 100% get the 270K Plus from Intel. It's almost on par with the 7800X3D in gaming and beats even the 9900X3D in productivity.
Troimer@reddit
thise are all good tips op. 9800x3d or 9850x3d are better for productivity. a quality air cooler will last forever. x3d cpus are not very ram sensitive so 5600MHZ will be fine and cheaper.
but there is no major issue with this build. I have the same cpu/gpu combo and it slaps
Puzzleheaded-West159@reddit
I would probably try to get 9800x3d
ssd: there are cheaper variants like this - Acer Predator GM7000 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4
mobo: i like b850 aorus elite - it is a lot better
gpu: definitely go Gaming OC, - non sff generally have better cooling.
cpu cooler: you can cut come money going a thermalright aio like frozen prism
Other than that beast build.
aragorn18@reddit
Seems fine. You might be overspending on specific components, but it's hard to know without seeing your prices or knowing what country you're in. For example, the 990 Pro is kinda old and has been replaced by newer drives. I've seen prices for it be higher than faster PCIe 5.0 drives.