Rust pitting
Posted by dulan14@reddit | projectcar | View on Reddit | 18 comments
What’s your guys go to way to deal with this crap. I’ve sanded, wire wheeled, wire brushed and rust treated it but it still looks like ass.
Drunken_Sailor_70@reddit
I used ospho on similar areas on my car. Scrub it in with a red scotch Brite. Make sure to wear PPE.
kestrelwrestler@reddit
Rust remover fluid. Wire brush, repeat, until no black bits remain.
dulan14@reddit (OP)
I have a por rust remover but the directions said to put it on and leave it. I’m now ignoring those directions and using a soft dremel wire wheel and you can see the chocolate melting away.
kestrelwrestler@reddit
Great, that's the way. Ignore the nonsense here about it being oil staining and it'll go away with epoxy sealing etc. All wrong. It's rust that will come back, eventually, if the idea of that bothers you, carry on - you're doing a good job for noticing it and wanting to sort it.
Heavy-Focus-1964@reddit
is the pitting in the room with us now?
unless you’re going with the brushed steel look, a coat of primer will make that invisible, let alone a skim coat of body filler. both of which you’re going to do before painting.
step away from the OCD 🚨 put down the OCD and walk away 📣
124Enjoyer@reddit
I'm on board with the ''step away from the OCD'' part, because god knows it'll drive you insane.... BUT
That is rust. And it will come through again in a couple years. The only way to properly fight rust is to remove it entirely.
Heavy-Focus-1964@reddit
it looks more like oil staining to me, because the dark parts are still dark even though they’ve been ground down to level with the metal surrounding
whatever it is, it doesn’t look like anything that proper encapsulation won’t stop in its tracks
dulan14@reddit (OP)
Man it’s my rear window half covered by a gasket. It’s not oil it was rust that I’ve sanded, wire wheeled, rust converted. Then it started to rust again cause project cars take for ever. So I wire wheeled it again and then took a photo
124Enjoyer@reddit
Not all rust is orange/brownish. That is not oil staining, that is diseased metal.
dulan14@reddit (OP)
Rust pitting. Doesn’t seem like I am getting it all
Heavy-Focus-1964@reddit
you’re not gonna get it all.. this is a quarter panel, right?
the goal is not to grind until smooth. that will just make the whole panel as thin as the pitting.
all you have to do is get rid of actively oxidizing metal/rot, anything that falls off just by looking at it. then you do a skim (the thinnest possible) coat of body filler and 2k epoxy then move on to whatever top coat.
the only thing concerning i see here is the oil staining, and you’re not gonna grind that out. if you really care, hit it with heat until it evaporates then go back to step 1 above
dulan14@reddit (OP)
Rear window, body filler was cracked here. I’m just trying to kill the rust which I thought I had with a remover/converter but did not. From my understanding any thing that is black will rust back
Holiday-Witness-4180@reddit
Most rust converters will turn rust black. 😂
Heavy-Focus-1964@reddit
the dark spots in this photo look more like oil penetration rather than rust, to me.
in any case, if you remove the Oxygen from Oxidization, then there’s no more reaction. oil penetrated steel is not necessarily ideal to paint over, but if you cover this in 2k epoxy primer i wouldn’t lose much sleep over it
CodewortSchinken@reddit
I use a product called Pelox RE. It's basically phosphoric acid with some thickening agent so you can apply it to vertical surfaces.
dulan14@reddit (OP)
I’ll look into that. I have the rust remover from por15 but it doesn’t seem to work super well
Holiday-Witness-4180@reddit
The Por-15 is also phosphoric acid based. It will not remove the pitting, just the rust. If you use their metal prep solution that also has phosphoric acid. Phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in most rust removers, converters, etch primers, and so on. The good thing about using products with phosphoric acid is that you don’t need all the rust to go away. The longer you leave it on there, the more of the rust it will eat. The rest will be converted to iron phosphate, which is a rust inhibitor. The clean steel will be etched, which aids adhesion. Some converters also have zinc that will create zinc phosphate, which is a common component in many DTM primers.
Your other option is a chelating compound, but if you aren’t patient enough for what you are using, you probably won’t like that option either. Chelation is a much different chemical reaction that will make the rust water soluble so that it can be rinsed off, but takes longer than eating it away with acid.
Rude-Key-2418@reddit
Naval jelly is the same thing also. phosphoric with thickeners. Not sure which is cheaper or if they have the same amount of acid