The cheap microcenter bundles/deals don't ship, that's the problem. So unless you want to make the drive, you'll porbably just be building this whole thing online
The microcenter bundle on the ram/mobo/CPU would save you about $238, so with the cost of fuel, I don't even think it's worth the drive to get the bundle.
Motherboard: great mobo. Wifi 7. PCIe 5 for bother your GPU and SSD. To note: PC Part Picker is saying you might have to update this Motherboards bios in order to run the 9800x3d chip, just a heads up.
SSD: PCIe 5, wicked fast. Make sure to put it in the PCIe 5 m.2 on that mobo.
RAM: 32gb 6000Mhz CL36, great ram.
PSU: 1050W, A-tier PSU. It's a bit overkill, but it's only $9 more than the 850W and it gives you more headroom for potential upgrades in the future.
Cooler: just a classic peerless assassin. If you wanted an AIO (liquid cooler), let me know. I can flip a good one on there that has good durability and it's <$100
Case: Good case, good price. Just let me know if you had any specific aesthetic in mind.
Let me know what you want to do with the cooler and case.
thanks for the response. that looks like a pretty good price. i'm not super tech savvy but can figure a few things out... with that being said, is updating the BIOS complicated? i've never done that before.
for the RAM, do you think i need cl30, or cl36 is good enough? also, is 32gb enough? i assume it is but on an fps calculator website it recommended 64gb for gaming.
based on all the research i've done, going overkill on the PSU is not a bad thing because it is a part that can last through several upgrades if it's a good one.
i would say an air cooler is fine based on what i've read.
i'm not too worried about what the case looks like... i'm mostly concerned with performance than aesthetics so i'd rather spend less there and put that money elsewhere.
Doesn't matter if you're super tech savvy, just as long as you're willing to figure it out. So you're golden!
It's not guaranteed that this motherboard will not have the required BIOS to run the CPU, it's just warning that it MAY not. That being said, flashing a BIOS without a working CPU is not hard anymore. A very short explanation is, you load your BIOS onto a flash drive, make sure your mobo is plugged into your PSU and your PSU is on (but PC is off). Plug the USB w/ the BIOS into the usb port on the mobo that says (Flash BIOS), press the Flash BIOS button that's on the back of the mobo, a light starts blinking to indicate it's doing some work, and when it stops flashing, she's done! Piece of piss on new mobo's.
I've read read a decent amount of threads on CL30 vs CL36 now, paired with the 9800x3d. Because the 9800x3d has the X3D cache, it does a lot more heavy lifting and reduces the dependency on the memory speed, so it is almost unnoticable. If you can find CL30 RAM that's not much more than CL36, go for it, but you really don't need it with an X3D chip.
Definitely not a bad thing, and a lot of PSUs shut their fan off when they're not working that hard, so if you have an oversized PSU, it won't make a sound cause it's not working hard enough to even start its fan.
Air coolers are definitely find for gaming.
Sounds good on the case, we'll keep the one I picked.
Haha - I follow ball a bit, but my name didn't actually come from that. Came from a few different things in my life that I brought together into a name lol.
As far as the driver concern goes, I actually just googled it because I wasn't aware they had issues again. I knew they had issues on release, but fixed them quite quickly. Nvidia does have better driver support and less issues that way, and a 5070Ti upgrade is within your budget (around $300 more than the 9070XT). That being said, AMD does/will fix their drivers, rest assured. And the 5070Ti is almost $300 more, and doesn't have a huge performance boost above the 9070XT outside ray/path tracing games. But the 5070Ti does have Framegen 4x, but you'd only use framegen in large cinematic AAA games as it introducing input lag. You mainly play shooters so you would absolutely never use framegen.
ALL that being said. I personally don't think the extra $300 is worth it for Nvidia. Ya maybe AMD releases a bunk driver here and there, but they do resolve it, and when they release a bad driver, you can always roll back to a previous driver that was working, until they fix the new ones.
thanks for the reply. the 3 pack of fans may not be a bad idea, i'll think about it.
based on what you said, i think sticking with the 9070xt will be fine since amd fixes their stuff eventually.
do you recommend ordering everything at once, or one at a time? should i wait a little longer to see if ram prices come down more?
based on what we've talked about, would you recommend an even better PSU than what is selected, or this one is still very good and should suffice?
do you think i should get a mobo that definitely doesn't need a BIOS update since i am a first time builder and that would be one less thing to screw up?
I don't know what's going to go on with the price of ram, before Christmas people didn't think it could go this high. After Christmas people said it'll be like this until 2028 because AI bought 33% of the ram for the next 2 years and there is only so much manufacturers can produce. Now people are saying the price might ease down... It's a crap shoot, is all I'm trying to say. If you want to game now, buy now, if you can wait, wait. It's a gamble at the end of the day.
That's what most everyone uses as the golden standard for PSU quality. The one in your build is rank A, so the highest you can get, and it's a great price.
The next upgrade is their 1200W, which is $130... But that's a much bigger jump than the $10 difference between their 850W and 1050W, that's why I took the 1050W.
You can get a different mobo, I just chose a good overall mobo at a cheaper price. We could definitely change the mobo for probably like $20-30 more, it'll have mainly the same features, only difference would be guaranteeing that BIOS update comes preinstalled.
$20 more for CL30 is a good deal for sure! Do it up! CL30 will have better resale value, and white ram is normally more expensive than black, too.
ya, a 1050W will run a 5080. The only GPU it would be slightly too small for would be a 5090, but it could still run it, but you'd definitely be on the low side of the required PSU for it.
Does the color of the mobo matter? I see white/black both at $150. If you got that white RAM, I wasn't sure if you'd want any other white parts, or what color you'd prefer. We could really change it up and make your rig white lol.
so i was telling my friend (perplexity ai lol) about the build and it wanted me to ask you this, “Is the Crucial T710 really worth the extra money for a gaming build, or would you recommend a cheaper high-quality Gen4 SSD instead since the performance difference probably won’t be noticeable in games? Do you think the T710 is worth it for gaming, or should I just go with a cheaper Gen4 SSD?”
well as far as color is concerned, would it be much of a price difference between black and white?
Were you thinking of going with a 1tb? or a particular model?
There are cheaper options, I just got tired of looking at them and reading about them cause there is a lot of junk out there now that samsung/western digital are so much money.
It's better, but it might not be $100 better to you. The Silicon Power UD90 2tb is $234, we could flip that in there for sure.
I'd definitely go with 2tb. Some games are 100gb by themselves, 1tb seems to fill up pretty fast these days. Which you can make work if you don't mind delete/downloading new games every now and then.
That being said normally 2tb drives are cheaper on a $/gb basis.
e.g.
UD90 1tb is $145
UD90 2tb $234
Same with the crucial drive I posted, the 1tb is waaaay more pricey than the 2tb on a cost per gig basis.
PixelPete27@reddit
The cheap microcenter bundles/deals don't ship, that's the problem. So unless you want to make the drive, you'll porbably just be building this whole thing online
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CGHJbp
The microcenter bundle on the ram/mobo/CPU would save you about $238, so with the cost of fuel, I don't even think it's worth the drive to get the bundle.
Motherboard: great mobo. Wifi 7. PCIe 5 for bother your GPU and SSD. To note: PC Part Picker is saying you might have to update this Motherboards bios in order to run the 9800x3d chip, just a heads up.
SSD: PCIe 5, wicked fast. Make sure to put it in the PCIe 5 m.2 on that mobo.
RAM: 32gb 6000Mhz CL36, great ram.
PSU: 1050W, A-tier PSU. It's a bit overkill, but it's only $9 more than the 850W and it gives you more headroom for potential upgrades in the future.
Cooler: just a classic peerless assassin. If you wanted an AIO (liquid cooler), let me know. I can flip a good one on there that has good durability and it's <$100
Case: Good case, good price. Just let me know if you had any specific aesthetic in mind.
Let me know what you want to do with the cooler and case.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
thanks for the response. that looks like a pretty good price. i'm not super tech savvy but can figure a few things out... with that being said, is updating the BIOS complicated? i've never done that before.
for the RAM, do you think i need cl30, or cl36 is good enough? also, is 32gb enough? i assume it is but on an fps calculator website it recommended 64gb for gaming.
based on all the research i've done, going overkill on the PSU is not a bad thing because it is a part that can last through several upgrades if it's a good one.
i would say an air cooler is fine based on what i've read.
i'm not too worried about what the case looks like... i'm mostly concerned with performance than aesthetics so i'd rather spend less there and put that money elsewhere.
once again thanks for taking the time to do that
PixelPete27@reddit
Doesn't matter if you're super tech savvy, just as long as you're willing to figure it out. So you're golden!
It's not guaranteed that this motherboard will not have the required BIOS to run the CPU, it's just warning that it MAY not. That being said, flashing a BIOS without a working CPU is not hard anymore. A very short explanation is, you load your BIOS onto a flash drive, make sure your mobo is plugged into your PSU and your PSU is on (but PC is off). Plug the USB w/ the BIOS into the usb port on the mobo that says (Flash BIOS), press the Flash BIOS button that's on the back of the mobo, a light starts blinking to indicate it's doing some work, and when it stops flashing, she's done! Piece of piss on new mobo's.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=38URrpCA4RE - this guy did a good job going over it all.
I've read read a decent amount of threads on CL30 vs CL36 now, paired with the 9800x3d. Because the 9800x3d has the X3D cache, it does a lot more heavy lifting and reduces the dependency on the memory speed, so it is almost unnoticable. If you can find CL30 RAM that's not much more than CL36, go for it, but you really don't need it with an X3D chip.
Definitely not a bad thing, and a lot of PSUs shut their fan off when they're not working that hard, so if you have an oversized PSU, it won't make a sound cause it's not working hard enough to even start its fan.
Air coolers are definitely find for gaming.
Sounds good on the case, we'll keep the one I picked.
Haha - I follow ball a bit, but my name didn't actually come from that. Came from a few different things in my life that I brought together into a name lol.
As far as the driver concern goes, I actually just googled it because I wasn't aware they had issues again. I knew they had issues on release, but fixed them quite quickly. Nvidia does have better driver support and less issues that way, and a 5070Ti upgrade is within your budget (around $300 more than the 9070XT). That being said, AMD does/will fix their drivers, rest assured. And the 5070Ti is almost $300 more, and doesn't have a huge performance boost above the 9070XT outside ray/path tracing games. But the 5070Ti does have Framegen 4x, but you'd only use framegen in large cinematic AAA games as it introducing input lag. You mainly play shooters so you would absolutely never use framegen.
ALL that being said. I personally don't think the extra $300 is worth it for Nvidia. Ya maybe AMD releases a bunk driver here and there, but they do resolve it, and when they release a bad driver, you can always roll back to a previous driver that was working, until they fix the new ones.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
thanks for the reply. the 3 pack of fans may not be a bad idea, i'll think about it.
based on what you said, i think sticking with the 9070xt will be fine since amd fixes their stuff eventually.
do you recommend ordering everything at once, or one at a time? should i wait a little longer to see if ram prices come down more?
based on what we've talked about, would you recommend an even better PSU than what is selected, or this one is still very good and should suffice?
do you think i should get a mobo that definitely doesn't need a BIOS update since i am a first time builder and that would be one less thing to screw up?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ypRwrH/silicon-power-xpower-zenith-gaming-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-6000-cl30-memory-sp032gxlwu60afdg this ram is cl30 and only costs $20 more than the one we have already
PixelPete27@reddit
I don't know what's going to go on with the price of ram, before Christmas people didn't think it could go this high. After Christmas people said it'll be like this until 2028 because AI bought 33% of the ram for the next 2 years and there is only so much manufacturers can produce. Now people are saying the price might ease down... It's a crap shoot, is all I'm trying to say. If you want to game now, buy now, if you can wait, wait. It's a gamble at the end of the day.
The one I selected is really good. The following is the PSU Tier list: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1akCHL7Vhzk_EhrpIGkz8zTEvYfLDcaSpZRB6Xt6JWkc/edit?gid=1719706335#gid=1719706335
That's what most everyone uses as the golden standard for PSU quality. The one in your build is rank A, so the highest you can get, and it's a great price.
The next upgrade is their 1200W, which is $130... But that's a much bigger jump than the $10 difference between their 850W and 1050W, that's why I took the 1050W.
You can get a different mobo, I just chose a good overall mobo at a cheaper price. We could definitely change the mobo for probably like $20-30 more, it'll have mainly the same features, only difference would be guaranteeing that BIOS update comes preinstalled.
$20 more for CL30 is a good deal for sure! Do it up! CL30 will have better resale value, and white ram is normally more expensive than black, too.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
not in a huge rush at this point so i can probably wait a little longer
PSU looks good so i think i will keep it... i'm guessing the jump from 1050W to 1200w starts to be diminishing returns territory...
for $20-30 more i think it would be good for a different mobo so that's one less thing to do
i'll add that cl30 ram
PixelPete27@reddit
ya, a 1050W will run a 5080. The only GPU it would be slightly too small for would be a 5090, but it could still run it, but you'd definitely be on the low side of the required PSU for it.
Does the color of the mobo matter? I see white/black both at $150. If you got that white RAM, I wasn't sure if you'd want any other white parts, or what color you'd prefer. We could really change it up and make your rig white lol.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
so i was telling my friend (perplexity ai lol) about the build and it wanted me to ask you this, “Is the Crucial T710 really worth the extra money for a gaming build, or would you recommend a cheaper high-quality Gen4 SSD instead since the performance difference probably won’t be noticeable in games? Do you think the T710 is worth it for gaming, or should I just go with a cheaper Gen4 SSD?”
well as far as color is concerned, would it be much of a price difference between black and white?
PixelPete27@reddit
Were you thinking of going with a 1tb? or a particular model?
There are cheaper options, I just got tired of looking at them and reading about them cause there is a lot of junk out there now that samsung/western digital are so much money.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
i'm not sure on size... what do you recommend? i could see it going either way
i think i could honestly do with gen4 unless the price difference is tiny
PixelPete27@reddit
I was trying to find an SSD with DRAM as well, for the longevity and to make the OS more snappy
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
oh well if it's worth the extra cost that should be fine
PixelPete27@reddit
It's better, but it might not be $100 better to you. The Silicon Power UD90 2tb is $234, we could flip that in there for sure.
I'd definitely go with 2tb. Some games are 100gb by themselves, 1tb seems to fill up pretty fast these days. Which you can make work if you don't mind delete/downloading new games every now and then.
That being said normally 2tb drives are cheaper on a $/gb basis.
e.g.
UD90 1tb is $145
UD90 2tb $234
Same with the crucial drive I posted, the 1tb is waaaay more pricey than the 2tb on a cost per gig basis.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
ok let's stick with the ssd you put originally. were you able to find a different mobo that wouldn't need a BIOS update?
PixelPete27@reddit
Oh shit, ya I did. but I got distracted by my question about the white vs black mobo.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
which one did you come up with?
PixelPete27@reddit
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GP7MnQ/msi-pro-b850-s-wifi6e-atx-am5-motherboard-pro-b850-s-wifi6e
or
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/CpQwrH/msi-b850-gaming-plus-wifi6e-atx-am5-motherboard-b850-gaming-plus-wifi6e
Basically a color pref.
There's only 2 m.2 slots in these two. Just giving you a heads up in case you wanted 3.
Low-Landscape-8984@reddit (OP)
i think i'll stick with black
OldOne999@reddit
"and day trading"
RIP life savings.
floodassistant@reddit
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