Pamir Highway in September: share a 4x4 convoy and tips from those who’ve done it?
Posted by Own-Baker-9609@reddit | overlanding | View on Reddit | 21 comments
Hi everyone,
We are two friends from Amsterdam, early thirties, who met on road trips in Australia in our early twenties and have since travelled across Europe together. After a few years of city life, we are ready for a bigger adventure again, this time along the old Silk Road with the Pamir Highway in September.
We are planning to rent a 4x4 jeep and drive ourselves, but would rather not do it completely solo. Ideally we would join or form a small convoy, and for certain stretches follow a local driver to get a better feel for the route and terrain.
What draws us is the full experience: remote mountain roads, big landscapes, campfires, stories, maybe a yurt stay and the occasional vodka or homemade spirits along the way.
For those who have done it:
\- Is it realistic to team up with others, either in advance or locally?
\-Any tips on organising something like this or things to watch out for?
And if anyone is heading there around September and thinking along similar lines, it would be great to connect.
Thanks!
hanrahs@reddit
I went through there about 10 years ago so dont have any up to date information, back then nearly the entire trip from Dushanbe to past the Kyrgyzstan border was gravel and dirt. A fair few trucks and other overlanders around.
We basically did from the UK to Mongolia via Turkey - Georgia - Azerbaijan - Turkmenistan - Uzbekistan - Tajikistan - into Afghanistan for a little bit - Kyrgyzstan - Kazakhstan - Mongolia - up and into Siberia for a bit before heading back through Russia and the Baltics.
Absolutely loved the Pamirs, the road along the Afghanistan border and the wakhan corridor, special shout out to the guy (and his family) who made stoves in Murghab who welded our car back together.
Also no mans land up on that Tajik-kyrgyz border is stunning
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Sounds amazing! What happened to your car that it needed to be welded??
hanrahs@reddit
Issues began with a massive pothole in Turkmenistan maybe half an hour north of the gates to hell, broke the chassis, severed fuel lines, broke suspension and broke the steering. Our visa was a transit visa and we needed to leave the next day (jail was a serious threat for overstaying) so we ratchet strapped the chassis, used a tree stump in place of suspension and used a water bottle full of fuel in the passenger footwell (the broken chassis had pinched and severed the lines to the tank in multiple places. I can't remember how we fixed the steering, but it wasn't a very good job as I'll come to later.
All that kinda worked ok, and we managed to drive to the border and arrive about midnight (also it was incredibly hot that day - 40+ degrees.)
Our temporary fixes were starting to fail, let's just say we were worried we wouldn't be able to drive the 50m to the border and then over the bridge in no mans land, but we managed to get out of Turkmenistan and into Uzbekistan, about 100m after the border the steering let go and the car careened towards a dam. Managed to stop it just in time, put it on a truck and took it to Khiva had a guy work on it there (dodgy as, and not a great job, but after a few days we got going again), ended up having more welding and other repairs done in Dushanbe and Khorog.
Probably a bit silly taking it into the wakhan corridor after that but it was one of the places I really wanted to see. You could always tell when the chassis was coming apart again, as the steering got heavier and heavier until you could hardly turn the steering wheel, also still having lots of issues with the fuel lines, the dodgy guy in Khiva used air hose and the fuel just disintegrated the line so quickly.
Anyway got to Murghab and stayed at what we called the Shining hotel... (Pamir hotel), we asked if they knew anyone who could weld and help us out, they took us a down the road to a guy who made stoves.
Honestly he was amazing, we never had another problem with anything on the rest of the trip, he managed to weld up the chassis (and cabin and doors and everything else that had been breaking apart due to the flex in the broken chassis), fixed our fuel lines properly and our steering. We went to some truly rough places after that in Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and Siberia, plus the huge drive back through Russia.
Forever be grateful to him. He had a couple daughters maybe 3 and 6 years old who were so sweet, we have some great photos of them all.
He was on the road between the Pamir hotel and the container market, about half way down and worked out in front of his home.
I'd love to go back and do a similar trip again, there is so much more to see.
dxdt_sinx@reddit
Hi. So I did it by motorcycle, Yamaha WR250R. I rode from UK to Japan via central asia largely via backroads and trails. My Asian route for that section was Turkey > Georgia > Russia > Khazakstan > > Uzbekistan > Tajikistan > Kygyzstan > Khazakstan > Russia > Mongolia > Russia then some ferry services to Korea, Japan, and on to USA etc.
Few things to note:
There are always travellers passing through the Pamirs. 99% are following the main "Pamir Highway" route which is passable by all normal vehicles. The vast majority are travelling Eastbound, but you will see a few coming back the other way. Facebook is a great place to find traveller groups who are setting off at various dates. Or you can just meet fellow travellers at the camps along the way. The main route is a veey well beaten path and there are many tourists, accomodations, yurt camps etc. I didnt plan to travel with anyone, but ended up meeting a selection of people and at one point I was travelling in a group of 10 bikers of various capabilities. The bigger bikes and cars were stuck to the highway. Enduros took the higher roads were there no tourist services at all. Literally nothing. If you break down away from the main route, you are stuck bad.
Dushanbe is kind of the best hub from which to organise anything like spare parts, repairs, or meeting up with fellow travellers and hang out for a bit. Its a cool town actually and a great plave to break up the trip. There are ztorgae facilities there and many people leave there vehicle there and fly back in to continue.
Western Uzbekistan has long stretches of desolate desert with little facilities and poor quality fuel. Plan accordingly and really make sure you are equipped for a breakdown passing that area. Also the border process at Uzbekistan can be comically slow. Arrive early. It took some people 10+ hours to cross. We paid a small bribe and were through in less than 1 hour.
Khazakstan still has problems with roadside corruption and regardless of what you hear, cops may still find reasons to pull you over in a foreign plate vehicle if you look like an overland rig and stick out from the crowd. You can refuse to pay, but they will make your day slow and annoying. Eventually I just removed my licence plate refused to pull over for them, they didnt follow in rural areas, but city cops will chase you down lol.
Understand the limits of your vehicle in the Pamirs. The primary routes are actually well maintained and most local vehicles are just small regular FWD family cars. However, if you choose to leave the main routes and try for mountain passes then the road conditions deteriorate rapidly. I got by because my trail weight was about 130kg for the bike and I could bump it over steps and ruts. Many of those routes would be completely impassable by car including larger 4x4.
Account for how your vehicle will operate at altutide if you plan to take mountain passes, some of those high routes cross 4500m and your vehucle will be operating in conditions for which it was probably not designed. On that note, make sure you know how your own body will react to altitude. Ive seen tourists be evacuated from the roadside rest stop at Ak Baital something like ~4400m.
Pack lots of spare fuel filters and use them regularly. Bring an external fuel filter sock. Bring quality oil with you to plan ahead for servicing.
Visas can be problems. It took me 3 weeks to get my Uzbeki visa in Turkey. Russian situation is difficult now so I assume you may have to take Caspian ferry route. Not sure how you woukd leave the other side though, unless you did Karakoram escort and went Southeast via Pakistan. I know someone who did that but it was thousands in fees and permits.
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Great tips, thanks! Sounds like you have had a great adventure. When was this?
dxdt_sinx@reddit
It was 2018. If I remember correctly I made it to the Pamir mountain region around early-August and passed back out into Khazakstan in late September. Crossing back into Siberia started to get colder really quick and we saw snow by early October.
TacticalSugarPlum@reddit
Hi. we're planning a trip to Kazahstan this year and thinking of including the Pamir highway. can we DM to talk some details? we're also looking to team up
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Yes, sounds good!
Fearless_Back5063@reddit
Keep in mind it's now a heavily used main highway to bring products from China to Tajikistan. So expect hundreds of trucks on the main road. I recommend doing the wakhan corridor part. It's much quieter. And it can be done by any regular car nowadays, so no 4x4 is really required unless there is a landslide or flooding.
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Good to know, we will definitely check out the wakhan corridor- thanks. I checked out some videos already and did see some trucks/hear about it, but not too much. Do you know if this increased in more recent times? Not sure to what extent this creates a different experience that is less ideal
Fearless_Back5063@reddit
We were there in September 2024 and the main road was heavily used and the last part between Khorog and Khalaikum was under construction and in parts it was already a fully ready 4 lane highway.
The wakhan corridor was still a dirt road the whole way. From what I heard the last "wild" part is to go through Bartang valley.
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Thanks, good to know!
Fearless_Back5063@reddit
Wakhan corridor was still amazing. I can also recommend going to the abandoned observatory. I would also like to explore the area towards Kyzylarabot as we didn't have time to go there and I heard it's still untouched mostly.
Ok-Student5569@reddit
Enjoy all the lamb you can find sir DELICIOUS
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
We both prefer a vegetarian diet so have a bit of an issue there 😂 guess this will be a flexitarian period of our lives
Fearless_Back5063@reddit
I know a few people who went to central Asia as vegetarians and came back as meat eaters :D If you cook a lot yourself, it's doable without meat in Kyrgystan and the lower parts of Tajikistan. In the GBAO region, it's really hard to get fresh vegetables in the markets, so come stocked.
michaeljlucas@reddit
I’d be more concerned with visas.
What’s your plan for getting there in the first place (Turkey - Georgia - Azerbaijan -ferry- Kazakhstan - Uzbekistan)?
I’d check on the border situation at Azerbaijani, last I heard they were closed since Covid - yes really.
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Good consideration! We will check that out for sure. We were planning to fly out to Bishkek through Turkey, travel down to Osh slowly and fly out on Dushanbe. Or maybe the other way around. I did read about the GBAO permits so we now emailed some tour operators for more info
Adorable_Swing_2150@reddit
Convoy linking up locally is actually pretty realistic on the Pamir Highway, especially in September — it's prime season, so you'll run into other overlanders at guesthouses in Dushanbe, Murghab, and Ishkashim. Facebook groups like "Pamir Highway Travelers" are the main pre-trip coordination spot. If you want a local guide for the rougher sections, most guesthouse owners can connect you with drivers who know the M41 well. September weather is generally solid but pack for cold nights above 3000m.
Own-Baker-9609@reddit (OP)
Thanks so much for thinking along! Will definitely check out the facebook group. And great to know we can also ask the guesthouse owners for help
image-sourcery@reddit
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