[rifle] $669.98 Ruger AR-556 MPR 5.56 NATO Semi-Automatic Multi-Purpose Rifle - Shipping - Tax
Posted by Puzzleheaded_Egg5131@reddit | gundeals | View on Reddit | 71 comments
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Supetition4rad@reddit
I’m not up to speed on naming conventions. What’s this vs Ruger Hairier?
there_is-no-spoon@reddit
This is better. The hairier is an Anderson.
MPR is a pretty good out of the box rifle.
Supetition4rad@reddit
Good to know, I am glad to hear Anderson lives on in a way
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
But what is to become of Ruger. Beretta wants to take up to 30% of the stock for now and wants 4 of the 9 board seats.
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
With Berretta looking to go from 10% ownership of Ruger to 30% and wanting to take 4 of the 9 board seats I would expect more big changes at Ruger. I would not be surprised if Ruger's unlimited free service would change to Berretta's limited warranty of 1 to 3 years with many items no longer being covered. See limitation at:
https://www.beretta.com/en/terms-and-conditions/manufacturer-s-warranty
thelegendofcarrottop@reddit
Adjusted for inflation this is still a damned good deal.
Back in like 2019 when Tombstone Tactical had them for $550 I bought two. Still two of my best shooters.
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
PSA has the MPR for $550 in 2024 for one sale which sold out fast. Weeks later they offered it again for $600. I bought it during their 2nd sale. Those were much lower than price I had seen before or after and both time PSA sold out quickly. Those were BIN prices back then rather than just good sale prices. So $670 is not that much more consider it is about 1.5 years later.
Nice_Category@reddit
I got mine for the $599 price. Good deal for a good rifle. It's now my intermediate distance rifle.
PewPewPony321@reddit
2017 i paid 699 when they released.
No regrats
rcairflyer@reddit
I paid $579 November 2019. I'd expect inflation to increase the cost higher than $670. The Harrier price is in the $500s because it is less rifle. The Harrier is the inflation adjusted $400 rifle from 2019.
EllipsePerimeter@reddit
Paid this 6 years ago and it's a nice setup. Only useless thing is the muzzle brake (for a 5.56?). Easy change
LonelyPizza6451@reddit
Compared to other entry-level ARs on the market, you're still coming out way ahead here with all the upgrades this thing is packing. In fact, this is more a mid-tier piece at an entry-level price.
18'' cold hammer-forged barrel w/5R rifling: $200
Ruger’s Elite 452 two-stage trigger: $140
Low-profile gas block : $10
15-inch free-float handguard: $70
Magpul MOE SL stock: $50
Magpul MOE grip: $15
About $500 in upgrades over standard entry-level.
You will be collecting parts for a year at dirt-bottom prices trying to build & beat this package. Pricing under $800 makes this a great deal.
HowAboutNitricOxide@reddit
I’ve read /u/Old_MI_Runner’s comments about this enough to know that if I ever buy an MPR I better check the castle nut lol
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
If you read my comments then you also should know to make sure the barrel extension is not clocked like mine. /s
See the issue on mine at:
https://imgur.com/a/rugger-mpr-with-clocked-barrel-extension-Od0ATTr
Before I discovered the above issues I replied often recommending the Ruger MPR to first time AR15 owners who asked what to buy. Now I think everyone should try to learn to identify common issues that may show up with any brand of firearm. Some firearm brands seem to have more reports of issues than others.
I checked my friend's MPR that he bought about a year before I bought mine. His trigger did not need polishing like mine did. His castle nut was tight and his barrel accepted my Midwest Industries URR.
After Ruger replaced my barrel and receiver the fit was so loose between the upper and lower that I was able to insert a AR15Accu-Shim without any sanding to fit it. I also had to install two shims, an ,008" and a .004" shim on the pivot pin to eliminate the rattle.
gwelym@reddit
Yeah my AR556 is my first AR and it has been great - just ran a CAT Noah on it last weekend. But the receiver slop is notably bad. Did you address that on your own or with Ruger?
I’ll have to check the castle but torque too. I have noticed it isn’t staked.
gwelym@reddit
Oh I see your last paragraph is answering my question - didn’t realize that’s what the accushim is for.
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
Yes, I included the link even for the Accushim. For the pivot shims I bought the following from Amazon since I did not want to pay more with shipping to get shims from some other source:
1/4" Pivot Pin & Take Down Pin Shim Kit (14 Pack) MFR#15PP
The only issue I had with the Accushim is that the directions did not give clue that I would need to press the sides of it together a little to get it to fit in the slot in the rifle. That pressure is what likely keeps it from falling out.
I did not contact Ruger regarding the slop. As it was their tech repeatedly stated he replaced the bolt but it has the same amount of fouling on the bolt face and marks as my original bolt. There are two lugs with slight wear from not engaging correctly with the clocked barrel extension but I don't think any serious damage was done to the bolt so I am dropping it as I was getting no where with Ruger.
I expect they would have said the slop was normal and did not affect functionality. After my first range trip when I got home I thought the scope mount had come loose when I picked up the rifle and felt the rattle/slop from the upper and lower slop. So I decide to address the issue.
Prior to the Accushim I had a Leapers UTG AR-15 Accurizing Wedge. I had to trim a lot of material off the bottom of the wedge to get the upper to close enough. I probably needed to cut a little more off to be able to get the pin inserted. After about a week I decided to get the Accushim after learning more about it. I bought 2 to save on shipping so I have a spare if I or a friend ever needs one.
I don't have a suppressor yet but noticed the felt recoil with the original carbine buffer spring and H buffer in my Ruger was harsh compared to my $400 ACI Bravo. I was really disappointed with the felt recoil of the Ruger as it has an 18" barrel with rifle length gas system so I thought it should be softer shooting than my ACI Bravo with 16" barrel and mid-length gas system.
The Ruger is so over gassed that I can run a Sprinco red (extra power) buffer spring and H3 buffer. LRBHO (Last Round Bolt Hold Open) never works if I run weak ammo like PMC Bronze with that combo. It works most of the time with an H2 buffer. I could go down to a blue (enhance power) buffer spring and H2 if I wanted to run PMC Bronze in it but I don't plan to run that ammo in the rifle. My other .223 and 5.56 work fine.
With the higher power buffer spring and heavier buffer in my Ruger the felt recoil on the ACI Bravo was noticeably worse so I put a Sprinco blue spring and an H1 buffer in it. Eventually I will try an H2 but with the H1 and heavier spring the felt recoil feels about the same as with my Ruger AR-556 MPR with red spring and H2/H3 buffer.
I have a DDM4V7 upper with a 16" barrel with the same level of gassing as the Ruger. I read that DD intentionally uses a slightly larger gas port in the barrel to make their rifles more reliable when run in harsh conditions. I won't be using the rifle in such hard conditions so I put a Spring red spring and H3 buffer in it too. I can always switch back to carbine spring and H buffer if SHTF happens. Neither the Ruger or DD rifles are primary home defense firearms.
So you may want to try other spring and buffer combinations especially with a suppressor even if the suppressor has a low backpressure design.
gwelym@reddit
Interesting info on the buffer and spring. I only have the one 556 so nothing to compare to. I have a 6ARC build but not really a good comparison.
With the suppressor I think it shoots great and the recoil feels smoother to me. I do have an AGB on it that is only maybe 6 clicks open so that kinda lines up with your buffer/spring findings that it’s overgassed. I was shooting RUAG m193 55gr
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
I have an AGB but did not install it yet. I am not sure which rifle I may want to install it on. Once I replace a component on the Ruger they will no longer work on it without the original parts being put back on first. With the heavier spring and buffer taming the felt recoil I may just wait until I buy a suppressor.
gotohpa@reddit
What castle nut issues have they had?
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
Ruger does not stake the castle nut. That may not be an issue as the castle nut is unlikely to come loose if not staked as long as it is properly torqued. Some like Chad at School of the American Rifle say it should be staked. The problem is that Ruger did not provide enough torque to some of their castle nuts when assembling them so it is not uncommon for them to come loose. I had a armor's wrench so I could tighten the nut but I did not have a fixture at the time to make sure the buffer tube stayed properly aligned. I have that tool now. One can get by without that tool but getting the buffer perfectly aligned is difficult without the proper tool.
I would recommend just putting an armor's wrench on the castle nut to make sure it is tight before it comes loose. Most other rifles have stakes on the castle nut to prevent them from turning and coming loose.
gotohpa@reddit
Ironic because I would’ve assumed, knowing Ruger ARs, that the castle nuts would be torqued to all hell.
I have to wonder if my barrel nut is also over torqued because the gas block nearly touches the handguard and it appears as though the entire barrel is either rotated a few degrees or the block itself isn’t aligned…but my rifle is a bit overgassed at baseline so i suspect it’s the first issue.
So will the feed ramps be misaligned? Is that a way for mento tell if the barrel nut was torqued out of spec on assembly?
Old_MI_Runner@reddit
Ruger had a history of over torquing the barrel nuts and muzzles devices and failing to torque castle nuts.
Another issue is Ruger used no crush washers on the AR-556 rifles. Most use crush washers to aid in proper alignment of muzzle devices but Ruger used A1 flash hiders and radial brakes rather than A2 flash hiders and more effective brakes that requiriing timing so require a crush washer.
The alignment pin on the barrel fits in a slot on the receiver. It makes sure the feed ramp on the barrel aligns with the feed ramp on the receiver. But the pin will bend if the barrel nut is over torqued allowing the misalignment of the feed ramp sections. The pin may also widen the slot in the receiver at the same time the pin is being bent.
A reaction rod should be used that engages into the lugs ensure properly alignment and prevents damage to pin and receiver during torquing of the nut. A reaction rod with a sail is preferred do reduce risk of damage even more. Most recommend a Midwest Industry's UUR. I bought one to use when removing the OEM radial muzzle brake to avoid risk of damaging the rifle but due to slight misalignment lugs/feed ramp it would not engage the lugs.
See photos of the issue below.
https://imgur.com/a/rugger-mpr-with-clocked-barrel-extension-Od0ATTr
You can share one or more photo of your barrel at the same website and provide a link so I and others can comment on it.
Funk360@reddit
Glad you're doing better OP!
FeedMeMRE@reddit
We love you, Anderso-
Oh it’s an MPR..
HOW MANY PURPOSE DOES THIS RIFLE HAVE ??
AutomataDeObama@reddit
Porpoise count: Multi
thelegendofcarrottop@reddit
All of them.
theclevelander@reddit
Leeloo Dallas Muti-Pass (Rifle)
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