11 Countries. 5 Months. Overlanding West Africa - From the Sahara to the Rainforest [OC]
Posted by Crafty-School5838@reddit | overlanding | View on Reddit | 44 comments
We spent 5 months driving our Land Rover Defender through 11 West African countries: Mauritania, Senegal, Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Guinea, Côte d'Ivoire, Ghana, Togo, Benin, Nigeria, and Cameroon. To me, this is one of the world's most challenging overland routes - and one of the most rewarding!
Key lessons learned:
- Visas require planning: Some you can get on the border, others require letters of invitation and additional supporting documentation. You can get them all on the road, but they require some careful planning and consideration
- Roads vary wildly: Paved highways in Senegal, challenging mud tracks in Guinea/Cameroon (especially after intense rain)
- Cultural immersion is everything: Spending time in villages, attending ceremonies, learning basic greetings in local languages opened doors everywhere
- Overlanding challenges: Fuel quality issues, spare parts scarcity, border bureaucracy - patience is essential but there is always a way!
- Safety reality: Despite reputation, we felt welcomed everywhere. Use common sense, don’t drive at night, ask locals for advice
Practical tips:
- Best timing: November-March (dry season). We hit rainy season in Cameroon (and had mechanical issues as well) which made it much more challenging, but still doable
- Carnet de Passage: Really recommend for anyone doing this trip. Carnet is the way to get your car through Africa as hassle-free as possible
- Yellow fever certificate: Required at most borders
- French is crucial: English rarely spoken outside Ghana/Nigeria/Gambia (we don’t speak it and it was tough)
- Fuel: Carry 60L+ extra. Stations sparse, quality varies (filter everything / change filter regularly)
- Money: CFA franc in 8 of the 11 countries, different currencies in others
- Camping: Wild camping widely accepted with permission. Always ask village chief first
Unexpected highlights:
- Mauritania’s untouched beauty - we spent 3+ weeks in the desert… I could still be there! AMAZING!
- Benin's voodoo culture - authentic, not touristy, deeply spiritual
- Guinea-Bissau's Varela - pristine, barely visited. A paradise!
- The kindness everywhere - invited into homes, helped with repairs, guided to hidden spots
The photography challenge was managing extreme humidity (rainforest), dust (Sahara), and in honesty having the motivation to grab the camera after draining days back-to-back.
This route really isn't for everyone - it's physically demanding, logistically complex, and requires serious vehicle preparation. But I think it’s fair to say it is one of the world's last true overland adventures! And I reckon for many people on here - something you’ll be itching to get your teeth in unless you’ve tackled it already!
Happy to answer questions about routes, border crossings, cultural etiquette, vehicle prep, or specific countries! 🚙
JCDU@reddit
Great pics!
I'm curious about your setup - what did you carry, what did you use / not need, what was the build/spec of the 110, what went wrong / needed most maintenance?
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thanks, glad you like them.
Best response I can give to this is take a look here at our build in its entirety.
But in short it's a Land Rover 110 300TDi (1997) with a rooftop conversion.
In terms of maintenance, I can't lie that Africa has been brutal on our rig and whilst I love our Land Rover to bits it's needed a lot of attention (replaced master and slave on the clutch twice, new radiator, rebuilt rear diff, turbo and manifold issues, rear shock replacements, replaced alternator... I think that's it!) And that's with us doing regular maintenance checks and services every 5000km! LOL
JCDU@reddit
How many miles did you do and were the replacement parts good ones or aftermarket?
Surprised the rear diff needed rebuilt, salisburys are very strong.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
So far I think we've done around 40k miles (journey was drove from UK to the East of Turkey, back through southern Europe and then done the West Coast of Africa. We are still in Southern Africa now (currently Mozambique) and touring a few more countries before heading home.
All replacement parts have been good so far apart from the first master and slave on the clutch - they didn't seem to last long (<1y) and a UJ we had to replace was a poor one and had to be replaced a month later again, but we knew that in advance so no issue - we were ready with quality ones.
Re the rear diff - we had to get the pinion seal replaced in Lome and upon replacing it appears that the garage knocked the pinion gear back and into the crown, so the pinion was wearing away the body of the crown gear. We noticed this and then dismantled everything to save the rear diff. Which we did and then got it rebuilt when we got to a good garage... 4200km later! 🫣😭😂
JCDU@reddit
Interesting, thanks!
Do you think most issues were simply age / wear related or were there failures that "shouldn't" have happened? Any of it you'd prep differently / parts you'd replace or upgrade before another trip?
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
I think most was age / wear related. The only failure that shouldnt have happened is the rear diff really. But it's become quite the story for us (so... silver lining) 😂 In terms of prep I think I'd probably look at replacing and uprating the shocks. We had the vehicle inspected before leaving and we were in good shape, but I think I'd wish to have done that with a fine tooth comb and taken a bit longer on diagnosing potential issues and heading things off at the pass. May not have achieved anything but that's the only thing I can think of.
pinkkpanthur@reddit
AMAZING 🤩 🥰 Did you rent the rig or ship it in?
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you. We drove it from the UK to Morocco. Then we drove from there through the West coast before heading on to Southern Africa. Still here! 😬😂
FederalDrive5330@reddit
What kind of mechanical issues did you have and how did you solve them?
Amazing pictures and write up.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Main issues I can recall where:
- replaced master and slave on the clutch twice
- new radiator
- rebuilt rear diff (bad repair of the pinion seal in Togo so had to dismantle the rear diff in the middle of a national park so we didnt destroy the rear diff completely). Check out the story here if you are interested.
- Turbo and manifold issues (gasket and seals worn out, nothing more)
- Rear shock replacements
- Replaced alternator (a garage in Gambia managed to fry our original one).
Solve them - we did what we could but for the major repairs above we visited garages for parts and maintenance... this journey has made us much more mechanical but we are very far from being experts!
FederalDrive5330@reddit
Damn, having to do the rainy season in FWD must have been nerve racking. Good shit, just subcribed to your channel.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
We were ok until we got to the end of Cameroon and hit a road that we just couldnt get through! All fun and games tho. And thank you for the subscribe. Appreciate it. Great to have you along for the ride.
RoughRoading@reddit
Now this is a trip worthy of the "overlanding" label!
When you say "we", how many of you there were?
Can you tell a bit more about overall political climate and safety? I don't know much about Africa, but clearly there are vastly different regimes in different countries, and I believe the countries you visited have no ongoing military conflicts? What about crime?
Did you have decals or banners on your vehicle distinguishing you as a foreign tourist, nay, an adventure seeker, nay, an important agent of an inter-govermental mission to improve relations between African countries and the UK? Something to show that you are not just someone in a fancy Land Rover.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Haha. It certainly was quite a journey! And it's still going on - currently in Southern Africa.
'We' is just me and my girlfriend - we've been on the road for almost 2 years now (we went to the East of Turkey before heading through Southern Europe and through Africa)... although of course met up with other overlanders along the way.
Political climate and safety - we had no issues whatsoever. We were vigilant and certainly more so in places like Nigeria and Cameroon which before going we heard had a reputation but honestly, some of the nicest people we met where in these places. Cameroon - for mechanical reasons - we had to go through the south which is a conflict area and so we took the military escort through that region. Heard gunshots but no direct incident with us.
And re the vehicle, we have our YouTube and instagram on the side, a motto and a line of flags of all the countries we visited. No particular decals etc :)
Bottom line from our experience is the journey through West Africa is tough, sure, but the people overall are fantastic and curious human beings. We had a blast!
RoughRoading@reddit
2K subscribers in two years? Dude, you channel has got to soar with this kind of content! Someone who can tell a coherent story in words, photos and video AND not afraid to travel where other people would not go AND capable of mechanical repairs? Instantly subscribed! Thanks for replying!
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you. TBH we feel the same. We are putting a load of effort into the travel and loads into Youtube but just dont seem to be getting much traction. Maybe we have those skills above but understanding the YT algorithm doesn't feature! 😂
Anyway, thank you for subscribing, great to have you on the journey! 👊
clauderbaugh@reddit
Crikey! A real overlander has appeared! Looks like an amazing trip.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Haha! 👋
It has been (and it's continuing in Southern Africa currently!) Africa is amazing!
SluggaNaught@reddit
What camera and lens do you use?
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Shot with a Nikon (Full Frame) + 14-30mm, 24-70mm and 100-400mm (the holy trinity) plus a drone. That's it
Sharkitect813@reddit
Wow! Absolutely epic
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thanks. Great to hear you enjoyed the work
Medieval_Mind@reddit
Incredible shots.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you. The salt pools were really cool. One of those places you dont really appreciate until you see it from above.
kratington@reddit
Love seeing people do this, how was the safety issue in places like Nigeria, you see some people get security for it
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Hopefully adding a bit more inspiration to the pot!
We were also concerned ahead of time about Nigeria but honestly we were fine. Didnt get any security for it. The only place we had an escort was in Cameroon and that's because of a mechanical issue (lost 4WD) we couldnt take the bane route we wanted to and so had to pass through the southern conflict zone. The only way to do that is with a military convoy
Agvpista@reddit
Amazing photography! You should send those to Overland Journal
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you. Appreciate it.
I've actually just had an article out in the Winter issues of OJ (focused on Montenegro) and things in the pipeline for 2026 too 🤞
Guava-Jazzlike@reddit
Wow! I love it!! Love your courage, preparation and spirit of adventure. Amazing!!!
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you. If we can do it, anyone can!
Bambampowpow@reddit
If any, what sketchy situations did you encounter.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Honestly, nothing really. Managed a bit of corruption here and there but not as much as you might expect. No threats. No real issues. Just an amazing adventure, meeting great people
roberttheiii@reddit
Sorry mate but you have to be in an automobile to overland. Trains do not count.
bowcasterblanca@reddit
fantastic photos!
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you! Appreciate it
Doctorpayne@reddit
Beautiful shots! What sort of photo equipment are you using?
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thank you very much. We shoot on the Nikon Z platform and DJI for drone.
p4x4boy@reddit
fantatic pics. looks like an epic adventure. more, please.
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed them. And for sure will be posting more on here in the future. If you are interested tho please feel free to check out more of our content (photography and films) here.
Warm-Idea8412@reddit
How come you missed Morocco? It's like the overloading wonderland ✨️
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
We didn't. 😂 And we loved it!
But from my understanding it is considered part of North Africa not West Africa and I wanted to drop a post in here about West Africa in isolation... but I should put something up on here from our Moroccan adventures 🤔👊 as its all formed part of our trans-africa journey from the UK to Southern Africa
Warm-Idea8412@reddit
Oh awesome! Glad you had a great one! What beautiful journey must jave been. I did a from EU to Senegal and that was fantastic too. Morocco and Mauritania were our favorite 😍
Crafty-School5838@reddit (OP)
Yeah, it's been an adventure... and it's still going! :)
Sounds like a great trip too - Mauritania is a place I really want to go back to!
image-sourcery@reddit
Help Keep r/Overlanding Authentic
We've seen a rise in reposted or stolen content (karma farming). Use these reverse image search links to check whether an image is original.
If you find stolen or inauthentic content → report the post to Reddit and to the mods.
Authenticity matters here: helping flag reposts protects creators and keeps this community real.
Reverse Image Search:
Image 1: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 2: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 3: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 4: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 5: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 6: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 7: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 8: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 9: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 10: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
Image 11: Google Lens || Bing || TinEye
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.