header to exhaust connecting bolt absolutel refusing to budge

Posted by CableMartini@reddit | projectcar | View on Reddit | 21 comments

I've done everything, short of burning the car down. every angle, every socket type, every bit of leverage. even removed one of the stands j had holding up the exhaust and put the backstage with one of the jsck stand extend-o things on top for distributing weight. I dont have a blowtorch, ive drowned it in wd-40, I've used my weird little homemade breaker bar, and nothing. the other 3 came out with little to no hassle, especially compared to this one. really taking the wind out of my sails, i dont wanna take a breather, but holy shit this is taking the piss the second Pic is the other side, completely detached as it should be. there is literally no reason why this bolt is fighting for its fuckinh life so hard, but it sure is 2001 mustang teen returns

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21 Comments

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CableMartini@reddit (OP)

for reference, I own an impact drill, but it fucking sucks. spent all day looking for impact sockets, and none fit the drill. incredibly pissed about that, and then I come home to this fucker not wanting to adhere to the eviction notice I gave him

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ItsZahza@reddit

I bet if you look on marketplace you can find someone selling their old tools, it seems like space is an issue for you from reading your other posts, but I’ve seen a few selling stocked tool boxes if you could make that work. You dont neeed a heavy impact socket, just check the cheapy ones over so often and make sure they aren’t cracked. Ive seen a full set of 3/8” drive impact sockets on temu for $30 canadian 😅 Unless you need a deep socket to reach the nut a shallow socket will apply a bit more torque, and try to keep extensions to a minimum if you only have a tiny impact.

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TheBupherNinja@reddit

Go tight and break it off.

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DrRonnieJamesDO@reddit

When this happened to me, I carved a groove into the bolt with a hacksaw, then levered it with a flathead screwdriver and a giant breaker bar.

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Fearlessleader85@reddit

Get a 6 point short half inch drive socket and a 2' breaker bar and just break it.

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JB153@reddit

Heat is the only correct answer here. You can get a MAPP torch at any hardware store or tractor supply. Get that nut glowing hot if you can, keep the stud on the manifold cool, spray the stud with wd or any other penetrant to shock the rust free from the two. A red hot nut will expand and break the rust if the stud stays cool enough, she should come free as long as no ones cross threaded that stud. Been wrenching professionally in Canada's rust belt for 15 years, think upstate new york or michigan levels of rust. Ain't nothing that cant be fixed with a good amount of heat. Good luck 👍.

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Big-Energy-3363@reddit

Agree, propane never works. He needs Mapp gas! Get it red hot. I will often push a candle on the red hot bolt and let it cool, then repeat.

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Big-Energy-3363@reddit

MAPP gas!

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Smokey_Katt@reddit

You need heat and PB Blaster, and leverage.

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CableMartini@reddit (OP)

do i heat just the bolt head? or the entire assembly? never done this before, so im very afraid of fucking it up

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DriftinFool@reddit

Heat the flange so it gets hotter than the bolt and expands. Heating the bolt directly causes it to expand faster than the flange and get tighter.

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Smokey_Katt@reddit

Yes heat the head, but you are trying to get heat into the threads. So heat it, spray in a little PB at the threads, it will sizzle. Spray it more so that it soaks in as it cools, it’s supposed to be a penetrating spray, give it a few minutes to work. Then heat it again and put a wrench on it.

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ConsistentType4371@reddit

Had a similar issue once. Used a grinder to cut the bolts off entirely, banged them out of the flange, and replaced them with new ones.

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downsizingnow@reddit

For penetrating oil I use Fluid Film or Kroil. Better than WD40. Soak it. Give it a day or two. The impact wrench will either get it off or break it.

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skinnymatters@reddit

You may not need a torch. I’d try running the engine until the exhaust is at running temp, then try turning the bolt. That may be enough of a temp change to flex the material. This method has worked for me when installing/changing O2 sensors on the exhaust.

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Far-Plastic-4171@reddit

Buy a MAPP Torch and get it red hot. It's an exhaust system and you are not going to ruin anything. Wheel of death and cut the head off wear safety glasses, then you can use a stud pulled I had an exhaust manifold on a 428 FE and I pulled the motor with the exhaust manifold still on it. Machinist got it out and repaired the threads. Oxy-Acetylene, can't be stuck if its a liquid

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CableMartini@reddit (OP)

dont have access to anything of those things, any better "engine removal in my driveway" type of ideas? ngl, not really comfortable burning much of anything down there, just asking to singe a harness or something

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Far-Plastic-4171@reddit

Friend with all of the above. One of my dad's friends helped me pull the head on one of my cars for a bottle of Wild Turkey.

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BelongingsintheYard@reddit

Lots of penetrating lube and time. You might end up snapping the bolt off, just is what it is. On leverage. Use two combination wrenches. Closed end on the nut, then buddy wrench it. Hard to explain so google buddy wrench.

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Poil336@reddit

You need heat. Torches at hardware stores are cheap enough and may get it done. I like the induction heater idea. Oxy-acetylene would be ideal. Get it cherry red and try again.

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Rowdyflyer1903@reddit

What I have found through the advice of a good friend who is a fabricator/ welder. Heating works but he says it takes many cycles of heat then cool and repeat. I am about to remove the same from an old '73 Big Block Corvette. I wish I had one of those induction heater which will heat up a bolt or area without the worrisome open flame of an oxy/acetylene rig.