Are **CUSTOM** UPP batteries legit and good?
Posted by LixeYT@reddit | ebikes | View on Reddit | 35 comments
Ok so I've been talking to UPP's customer service through Gmail and I was talking to them about the upgarde triangle battery which seems bad because of its price but I honestly have no idea but when I was talking to them about it because I needed a custom discharge connecter (xt90 female double), I found out that they actually can install the custom connectors when the battery is shipped directly from China but you would get only an adapter from them if you order a custom connector from us stock so they gave me another (different or same?) battery but it's shipped from China and they can actually customize the connector instead of giving you only an adapter so I was wondering if I could do that for any battery and get good cells, good ??ah for range, and good quality just overall with all the customizations done to it. Also another thing is they asked for the cells I wanted so I'm guessing they can make them any cell I want (I don't know for sure). So will that work and will it turn out good if yes and should I actually buy it. Most important part is I need a 52v and at least 25ah, if I can get 28.8ah or more that would be better but I need to keep it under 400 dollars total. Another thing I need is so it lasts a long time and it has to be a BMS50A. Btw this is the battery I ended up with when I was talking to them about the upgarde triangle battery Model P101 triangle battery Also the kit that I will pair the battery with is a 2000w with a 45amp controller from speedelectric.co
Thank you for the time you took to read this and for the answers because I really want to get it but budget doesn't allow me to get anything else.
rabbitrampage198@reddit
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
You do know that was 4 years ago and that model was U004 and mine is P101........ I got now words for you
armadaos_@reddit
Noooooppppeeeee.
Listen to the warning bells.
Do not make excuses for a shady company, let their (bad) work products stand for themselves.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
I understand but bro 4 years is a very long time. If I saw some evidence of UPP battery explode in the last year I might consider but not 4 years ago
armadaos_@reddit
4 years is NOTHING in company culture, and business.
It's a long time for mayfly minded consumers.
Don't be a mayfly, when a person or a company shows you evidence of who they are, listen.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Ok what about chamrider then?
armadaos_@reddit
My man,
When their 'contact us' page says to hit them up on WhatsApp, that shits beyond a dice roll. There is NO expectation for quality, safety or reliability.
https://www.chamrider.com/pages/contact-us
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Ok what would be a good brand for a battery that's 48v 25ah or a 52v version under 400 dollars?
armadaos_@reddit
https://productiq.ulprospector.com/en/search?term=QGNS
UL listed units are above. You can also pick NRTL listed ones, Intertek for example. Feel free to hunt for what hits your metrics.
But imma be honest your eyes are FAR bigger than your wallet. 25ah at that voltage and price point is not something you're going to get safely. That's like a 12-15lb battery. Frankly even if you do find someone willing to take 400$ you're NOT going to get what you want. It's going to at best be drastically underperforming of your specs and most likely will just be a scam and you'll be down 400$.
You're thinking of slapping that into a Walmart brand bike... With a TWO THOUSAND WATT MOTOR. You need to reset expectations. Big time.
Do you REALLY need that AH? Are their operational things you can do to reduce that demand? Like ... Pedaling more. Or down gearing. Or just accept that you need to recharge more offen
What are you even doing here? What's your use case?
Why are you trying to shove the biggest most sketchy wattage motor on this? What's the point?
--
You're asking these very rudimentary questions and playing with the kind of power that gets people into seriously dangerous positions....let alone as A FIRST BUILD. Using sub-budget parts. And having to make a restricted budget by cheaping out on the most dangerous and most expensive part of your bike.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Ok what about 48v 20ah or 52v 20ah?
armadaos_@reddit
My man i do 14 miles / day, with barely any effort, on that with a 750 W mid drive, on 20AH, with cargo, and only recharge once every 2.5-3 days. It's overkill even for my workload.
2000W is way too much especially on a wheel motor. With a unit like that it starts to look very sketchy. Especially to authorities and schools who have to house your bike for hours. They're gonna ask questions. You want to be able to say legitimately you're a Class 1, 2 or 3.
If you're still completely guessing on batteries check out bicyclemotorworks or FTH. Or just search by Listings.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
That's because you got 750w max. You can't go fast. I gotta do 9 miles in 30 mins so I won't be able to use 750w. I dont think so. But also for offroad
armadaos_@reddit
Once again, you don't know what you're talking about.
I'm able to hit 30mph on my commute DAILY, and regularly casual cruise at 20mph.
750W is more than enough. 2000W is stupid, especially on a hub unit, and dangerous. You're setting yourself up for a big mistake, one that'll cost hundreds of dollars and possibly your health.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
I want to go more than 30mph that's why. What about 1500w with a 52v vs a 48v? How fast do both of those go max?
armadaos_@reddit
That's not safe.
That's not remotely safe.
You're picking the worst drive system (hub based), with the worst power configuration (a comical, and probably scam 2000w), on the worst bike frame (walmart special), a frame not even remotely designed to handle ebike equipment LET ALONE high speeds, with a comically oversized battery, most of the equipment you've called out are scams or sketch AF, and then you're telling me you want to go over 30mph on this hand-made monster. Energy is speed squared, and your body is going to take that energy.
STEP into ebikes, if you want it for commute, or entertainment, pick a system that introduces you to ebikes safely so that you then have the confidence and knowledge to KNOW what you don't know, and how to build.
Drop the 2000W, downsize. It's going to be better for you, and cheaper. You're still going to have a shit ton of fun, but you're going to do it on a bike that won't break, and leave you broken.
What safety gear are you wearing? You're fully into motor vehicle territory here. You're going to want motorcycle gear, EN 1621 or equivalent. Dress for the slide. Helmet to include full downhill face protection.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Well sorry but I got a low budget. 800 dollars max. But whats the max Volts can I get on a battery for a 1500w kit?
armadaos_@reddit
Then downscope... it's better for you, your wallet, and still is going to be hella fun compared to nothing.
--
Look, your budget is too tight, and your goals are too high. You need to decide what you're going to compromise. You're going to not get what you want at this rate. Especially when it doesn't even sound like you have a starter bike for this conversion.
On a mountain bike you WANT a mid-drive... Mid-drives allow you to pedal tot ADD power to your system, rather than relying a hub to DRAG you across the road... That's the secret sauce of mountain ebiking, it lets you pedal power + motor power to REALLY get up those hills.
But without a starter bike, and battery you're going to suffer and probably not make budget. You're looking at 1k minimum if you have the bike already. This kind of system is also much easier to upgrade down the road.
https://www.ebikessentials.com/products/complete-bafang-750w-bbs02-mid-drive-ebike-motor-kit-battery
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So you can choose a cheaper, hub motor.. It's not the best choice by a long mile, but it can meet budget, at 800. That means a a hub unit, smaller wattage, a smaller overall battery capacity, but it meets.
https://www.ebikessentials.com/products/complete-bafang-front-hub-ebike-motor-kit-battery
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Thanks. I might consider it or might just raise the budget
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
I bought a 52v 26ah BMW40a battery from UPP.
It was a stock battery that came from china
but they could put on any connector I wanted.
I chose XT90S, the "S" being the sparkless one.
You don't want sparking when you connect and
disconnect.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Can you tell me when you got the battery and if I wanted the xt90 double female discharge connecter with 50cm of discharge cable (with the sparkless feature) how would I tell them in the remark?
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
Two parallel discharge cables, both 50cm long, both with female XT90S connectors
Battery is 4 years old
Hundreds of charges
Flawless service
Winter riding with numerous falls on ice:(
I had bought the rear rack battery but didn't like the extra weight on the rear.
Made a mounting plate of aluminum and mounted battery on down tube.
The battery is feeding two 1000W motors,
one with regenerative braking that backfeeds as much as 900W.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Wait I think you told me the message for if I had 2 of something or is it how it's supposed to be for 1 battery?
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
You wrote "xt90 double female discharge connecter"
To me, double means two.
I think we have a communication problem;
thought you were going to power two controllers from the battery...
and hence the need for a custom build.
If all you want is a single xt90 connector, just buy the battery
from US stock with an adapter...
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Sorry I meant just one xt90 female discharge connector. Also I don't want to get the adapter because I don't wanna have any issues with anything
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
Having a dual motor, my mind just jumped to double discharge cables when you
wrote "double". You had me wishing I had ordered my battery like that:)
I would say that the chances of having issues with a factory-made adapter
are close to zero, but it's your money and your battery...
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
I meant the safety issues with the adapter because the xt60 connector pulls 60 A max while xt90 pulls 90 A max and with an adapter I'm guessing it will pull somewhere in middle which won't give me as much power and it's a safety issue unless I'm wrong?
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
I've always preferred the xt90s over the xt60,
even though they are an overkill for most
situations, simply because of their sparkless
design. Sparking, under the wrong circumstances
is a safety issue for sure.
Even if there's no apparent damage from a
spark, there is some minute loss of metal in the
connector. I use nothing but the xt90s on my
bike so I completely understand your point
of view.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
So it is better to get the xt90s than the xt60 with an adapter or just a normal xt90 without s? Because if so I'm 100% getting the xt90s
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
Your controller comes with an male xt90, so if you bought the US stock battery
with an xt60 and requested an adapter to a female xt-90s, you would have
a sparkless connection at the controller. This would be a safe connection for 45amps.
(A male xt90 is exactly the same as a male xt90s; the sparkless circuitry is in the female).
You need a 50a BMS and from your OP, I'm not sure if you can get one with a
us stock battery. If not, just order the custom with a female xt90s and a 50a BMS.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
It says its a BMS50A already in the title so I don't think I need to specify for them about it
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
Missed that, sorry.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Wait one more thing. What shape battery did you get? Triangle or down tube?
RadroverUpgrade@reddit
Rear rack, but ended up mounting it on the downtube.
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Nice
LixeYT@reddit (OP)
Sorry I meant an xt90 female discharge connecter just one not two. Also I want to get the actual connector instead of an adapter to have everything be perfect without issues.