Running gear question
Posted by woody423@reddit | sailing | View on Reddit | 13 comments
Just bought a boat with running gear that is about 10 years old. Any thoughts on how much longer it will last before I need to replace it? Or how to tell if it needs to be replaced now? I’m particularly wondering about the halyards.
lucekp@reddit
You can inspect the lines for core or cover breaks, chafing etc. But i would just buy new, it looks nice and not terribly expensive plus peace of mind while sailing
wlll@reddit
I got quoted several thousand by the local rigger for replacing my running rigging, I guess it depends on the number of lines.
lucekp@reddit
Or do it yourself
wlll@reddit
Yeah, at the price quoted I'm doing it myself, but a lot of the cost is the line itself so I'll save money, but it's still not going to be cheap.
boatslut@reddit
New med tech halyard for the 45 is ~$1000, we run 6 (main, 2 jib, 2 spin, topper).
Suppose it depends on your definition of "not terribly expensive is".
Running rigging on a laser ... Now that isn't terribly expensive, by my standards 😁🤣
lucekp@reddit
I replaced all running rigging on my 48 for probably 2k$ 3 years ago, still holding great. Most people dont need dyneema core halyards etc, just get poliester double braided in poliester core.
REDDITSHITLORD@reddit
Laughs in 50 year old Barlow winches and Southcoast blocks.
larfaltil@reddit
If the cover is chaffed and hairy it's best to replace them. If the blocks look chalky replace those too. Stiffness can be a sign the line has been overloaded, see if loosens up with use or washing. If not, replace with 1 size larger. Fading of the colour or darkening from mould don't make the lines significantly weaker.
2airishuman@reddit
After 10 years they're probably shot even if cared for, but maybe not.
The correct way to evaluate them is:
1) Purchase (or find in your pile of rope scraps a messenger line that will temporarily replace the halyard. You want something large enough that it won't get trapped in a block between the sheave and the block housing, but no larger. Paracord 550 can work on smaller boats, or 5mm XLS3. It should be as long as your halyard.
2) Remove any stopper knots from the bitter end of the halyard (the end you pull on, not the end that attaches to the sail), then attach the messenger line securely. If there is a reeving eye in the halyard you can use that, and tie a hitch in the messenger line (if there's room) or, splice or sew the messenger line to itself. If there is no reeving eye you can add one, or sew the messenger line to the halyard, or splice them together. Be sure whatever you use is secure, if it comes apart you're making a trip up the mast.
If in doubt as to whether the connection will go through the blocks, perhaps add some vinyl tape.
3) Tie a large stopper knot in the bitter end of the messenger line, or tie it to something, so it won't get lost up the mast.
4) Carefully pull the messenger line through in place of the halyard, then disconnect it from the messenger line and secure the messenger line so it cannot get pulled up the mast.
5) Wash the halyard. I use a washing machine with All Free & Clear detergent. If there's a shackle spliced in the end, wrap it in something like a washcloth and vinyl tape so it doesn't beat up your washing machine. Put the halyard in a mesh bag for delicates, then run it through the washer. I use the extra rinse feature. Let the halyard air dry.
Some people hand wash the halyard in a bucket instead. Either can work.
6) Carefully go over the halyard looking for bad spots. Evaluate the bad spots. Samson publishes retirement criteria for various kinds of rope in some excellent pocket guides, refer to those for details. In general if more than 10% of the load-bearing fibers are compromised in any section a foot or two long, the affected area has to be replaced.
7) Evaluate the shackle (if present) and determine whether it is still sound.
Once you've done all that you can decide what to do next, either return the halyard to service, or cut off a couple feet at the standing end (and re-splice or re-tie the shackle), or swap the halyard end for end, or retire it. In some cases it may be more economical to replace a halyard rather than to try to get another year out of it by redoing the shackle splice.
dickwae@reddit
FYSA, "running gear" is your shaft, strut, and prop. Halyards and sheets are "running rigging."
Foolserrand376@reddit
If the lines are dirty. I’d Mesh bag the lines drop em the washing machine. And see what survives. And then go from there.
If you have halyards that run inside the mast. Then 50% of the line may shot. But the parts that were protected by the mast could still be good. Use it for down haul lines reef lines vang etc.
unwhelming_potential@reddit
Totally depends on how the ropes have been kept. Were they moused into the mast, in a bag, washed seasonally? Or are they bleached white from the sun and green from mold? How good quality were the ropes when they were bought? What have they been used for, how often are they used? What do you plan to used them for, are you getting new sails, are you doing a solo crossing?
10 years of well maintained, lightly used, high quality rope is totally fine, that rope easily has another 5-10 years if you maintain it well and only lightly use it. 5 years of sitting out in the sun, or being constantly damp or being already low quality and that rope is going to do an amazing job at breaking during critical moments.
The answer is it depends. But if I had the money (and considering I already do all my own splicing then) then I'd replace them so a) I was using something good quality and the splicing was safe and b) I would know the replacement date and the maintenance history of the halyards and sheets.
Tri4Realz@reddit
If you have to ask, the answer is always yes. If budget is an issue, check online and with your local shop for bargains and replace each bit as you can. Be patient - you may have to wait for off-season clearance. But don’t be tempted to buy “standard” ropes as they will be too stiff. I speak from experience.