Black American moving to Colombia
Posted by Plane_Direction7383@reddit | expats | View on Reddit | 47 comments
Hi I’m a single black 50 yo woman that recently retired. Thinking of moving to Colombia so I’m able to stretch my income and live a simple relaxed life. I have been thinking about Santa Marta but when I arrive plan to visit Santa Marta and Cartagena and move to what feels most comfortable for me. I don’t know much Spanish but will be working on it before I make my move in the next couple of months. What are your thoughts? I will have a stable income, not into partying, I just want a simple life close by the beach and make to walk to markets. Please advise pros and cons. Suggestions. Etc.
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Same age retired Veteran. Been to Colombia and decided on the DR. I have Veteran buddies in Colombia currently. You can definitely live well there. I looked into it because there was a lot to like when I visited and I felt fairly comfortable moving around. Colombia is very affordable indeed and even 2k a month is more than a lot of the locals are seeing. I’d been to the capital previously while in the Army so I was familiar with how things are and some of what to expect. Barranquilla, Cartagena (and other coastal cities) are heavy with African descendants. I felt more comfortable there than Bogota or Medellin where I felt I stood out like a sore thumb. Was I the only Black man around? No, but there are definitely many more Indios and Blancos than Morenas or Negros in the interior of the country. You will “blend in” (physically) living in Cartagena and will notice yourself moving around differently. Your situational awareness has to be really on point throughout Colombia but more so in Cartagena. I was around the law enforcement community and Cartagena is a known hotspot for Venezuelan and Colombian organized crime. The Cartel activity is brazen in Cartagena - good thing you don’t party because you will not be exposed to the worst aspects of the underworld of Cartagena. People have to be careful because in an instant scopolamine could be blown in your face or slipped in a drink and the next thing you know they are cleaning out your bank accounts. It could be a very dangerous place for a single woman and as you see from the news it’s a very dangerous place for single men chasing good times while exhibiting poor situational awareness.
You definitely need to get some conversational Spanish down or I think you would be setting yourself up for trouble. It will take more than a couple of months for you to get conversational in Spanish. In DR I’m seeing non Spanish speakers using AI glasses for easy translation. I’m not fluent yet so I’ve taken a look at them and they are available at various price points. I will be grabbing one of the brands well under $200 lol. There are some areas in CTG where expats tend to congregate and I would focus my initial efforts on sticking close to those areas and meeting other like minded people who can help while you get your feet wet. There is a U.S. consular agency in Barranquilla which covers down on Cartagena that you can rely on for assistance. Make sure you register with the Embassy in Bogota and enroll in STEP in case SHTF https://mytravel.state.gov/s/step. Check into a good travel insurance policy and suitable medical coverage. No one plans to get into an accident overseas but the longer you’re in a country the higher the odds. Open a local bank account in Pesos with a debit card, keep a U.S Bank account and get a virtual mailbox service in Miami that can also forward the important mail to you for a few bucks. Might want to look into downloading the Remitly app on your phone so you can easily send yourself Pesos to your peso debit card for “running money” two or three times a month - keep the rest in your U.S account. Primarily carry your Peso account debit card so you won’t lose or be robbed for your real “bankroll”. A lot of expats get a Charles Schwab Investor checking account because you can open it up with around $100 and it comes with a Visa debit card that doesn’t have any foreign transaction fees and reimburses 100% of any ATM fees worldwide but again if you carry a U.S Bank card around on a daily basis you run the risk of loss if you’re victimized on the street.
That’s my .02 for what it’s worth
OkAbbreviations9091@reddit
Would you recommend the above to tourists traveling for a week or two as well? I have a trip planned to Cartagena in early July and given the news, I am re-thinking my trip
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Yes. The warning level is appropriate. I just spoke with an Army buddy nearby this morning on WhatsApp. Short or long term stay you need to cover yourself for possibilities. Murphy’s law and all of that.
OkAbbreviations9091@reddit
Thank you for your reply. Is it dangerous for tourists right now? I am thinking about cancelling.
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
I don’t know that I would cancel. Is it dangerous? Yes but it’s dangerous for people who don’t know how to act away from home. Stay away from the underworld (don’t seek out or accept drugs of ANY kind not even weed, prostitutes, etc). Other than that use the same good sense you would in a place like NYC or Miami at night and you’ll be ok. Follow the other tips above with regard to handling money in public
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Whew!! That is def good info!! I am on it and thankful I posted and thankful for your response. I didn’t even think about money/account aspect. Something else for me to research.
Semido@reddit
I’d really consider whether you want to live long term in a location where you are likely to be the victim of some sort of crime about once a year or so. For a peaceful life by the beach, I’d consider Asia.
Significant_Buddy811@reddit
I agree and I am from Colombia. I would retire in Colombia but the crime wouldnt let me, my preference would be somewhere in Asia. I have been living in the UAE for almost 20 years and I couldn't live in a place where I could not work around with my phone or wearing my jewelry peacefully.
Semido@reddit
And just now a presidential candidate got shot in the head, twice, during a rally…. It’s so sad
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Yeah I will likely eventually go to Asia. My daughter is moving to Thailand. I loved Thailand. For now I just want to be a little closer to the U.S. as I’m renting out my home but need to come back and forth to check on it. Better flights if I beee to get home.
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
I meant to send this to you privately but it may help others so I guess I will post it here. When we traveled to foreign countries under high threat warning we would conduct a risk assessment and a way to get out if things went south. I would highly suggest you consider doing the same for all foreign travel. We did this routinely without the benefit of ChatGPT but now it’s very easy to have ChatGPT handle the light work. To provide an example, I gave it the prompt to “Develop a primary, alternative, contingency and emergency route from the Clock tower of Cartagena, Colombia to the U.S. consulate in Barannquilla, Colombia. Each route should consist of a minimum of 6 GPS/MGRS waypoints”
Here are four detailed routes — Primary, Alternative, Contingency, and Emergency — from the Clock Tower (Puerta del Reloj) in Cartagena to the U.S. Consular Agency in Barranquilla. Each route includes at least six waypoints with GPS coordinates. I’ve also provided approximate MGRS zones that cover each waypoint — you can refine precise MGRS values using GPS/MGRS apps or online positional tools.
⸻
🛣️ Primary Route (Fastest main highways)
WP Description GPS (lat, lon) Approx. MGRS Zone* 1 Puerta del Reloj, Cartagena 10.4220, ‑75.5485 18MWH4805 2 Av. Blas de Lezo exit 10.4310, ‑75.5320 18MWH4906 3 Near Cartagena Plátano exit (Highway) 10.4870, ‑75.3830 18MWH6308 4 Cross to Montería 10.8300, ‑75.7070 18MWH2204 5 Enter Barranquilla (Via 40) 10.9430, ‑74.7950 18MWH2501 6 U.S. Consular Agency, Barranquilla 10.9639, ‑74.7964 18MWH2500 Alternative Route (Coastal road via “La Popa” loop) 1. WP1 Puerta del Reloj: 10.4220, ‑75.5485 (≈ 18MWH4805) 2. WP2 Roundabout at Cerro de la Popa: 10.4060, ‑75.5165 (18MWH5006) 3. WP3 Road toward Arrecifes: 10.3660, ‑75.4270 (18MWH5708) 4. WP4 Bypassing Cartagena via Ruta El Zulia: 10.2780, ‑75.3160 (18MWH6509) 5. WP5 Connecting at Montería exit: 10.8300, ‑75.7070 (18MWH2204) 6. WP6 Barranquilla Consulate: 10.9639, ‑74.7964 (18MWH2500)
⸻
🔄 Contingency Route (via inland roads, avoiding major highways) 1. WP1 Puerta del Reloj: 10.4220, ‑75.5485 (18MWH4805) 2. WP2 Cartagena urban bypass (Simón Bolívar Rd): 10.4280, ‑75.6390 (18MWH4004) 3. WP3 Near San Onofre junction: 10.8620, ‑75.4720 (18MWH3101) 4. WP4 Rejoining coastal route pre-Montería: 10.8300, ‑75.7070 (18MWH2204) 5. WP5 Entering Barranquilla: 10.9500, ‑74.8500 (18MWH2601) 6. WP6 U.S. Consular Agency: 10.9639, ‑74.7964 (18MWH2500)
⸻
🚨 Emergency Route (Backroads & low-profile paths) 1. WP1 Puerta del Reloj: 10.4220, ‑75.5485 (18MWH4805) 2. WP2 Local backstreet exit to Camino de la Furia: 10.4180, ‑75.5450 (18MWH4905) 3. WP3 Rural link Rd via Baranoa outskirts: 10.7800, ‑75.6000 (18MWH2703) 4. WP4 Near Piedras road entry: 10.8500, ‑75.6500 (18MWH2305) 5. WP5 Suburban route into Barranquilla: 10.9200, ‑74.8200 (18MWH2602) 6. WP6 U.S. Consulate final waypoint: 10.9639, ‑74.7964 (18MWH2500)
⸻
📘 Notes on MGRS • All waypoints fall under zone 18M, with grid squares between WH48 to WH25. • Exact MGRS values depend on finer easting/northing; use a reliable converter (e.g. on Garmin or mobile app) for precision.
Before You Go • Validate waypoints in advance using GPS or mobile apps. • Cache offline maps/data in case of connectivity loss. • Always have your primary route mapped, with the alt/contingency routes pre-saved.
GOOD LUCK! enjoy and be safe
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
This is also quite true. I’d want to do as much as possible to mitigate the chances of a successful incident. There are many things that can be done to increase the odds - having a “bug out plan” is one of them.
screamingaerodactyl@reddit
Exactly this, and just to add regarding virtual mailboxes (there's a bunch of them ipostal1, Usglobalmail, anytime mailbox etc.) I'd suggest looking at how many scans they give you and whether or not they use a real address that can work with your bank.
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Yes how you handle your accounts is very important. You’re a gringa and you’re not working EVERYONE will know you have some money. You have to make it as inaccessible to them as possible lol. Guys I know pay the big bill with their Schwab account by transferring equivalent pesos direct to the landlord’s account. Then just move enough money in your peso account for a week or two and carry that card in the streets. Any larger needs for money that are spur of the moment you can whip out your phone and Remitly their account or debit card on the spot. You may also want to use a travel WiFi router to make WiFi calls and use internet with your own cell phone. Some folks get an ESIm. I buy enough GB on a local SIM card to last for the duration of my time there. I never use public WiFi in South America unless I have to. A pocket WiFi router can connect up to 10 devices and is cheap enough for GB in pesos it’s worth it to have your own secure network.
Klutzy_Champion7954@reddit
Don't do it. You will regret it quickly. Consider Panama, or mexico. Based on your stated motivations and age. You Will have better odds for assimilation, communication and handling the business of life as a single mature female. As Americans, we sometimes think only of what we want versus. What we need. This is not a vacation you're planning. Make sure to consider who as in city or country wants you. Panama and Mexico are better choices. Follow your research, not feelings. Best wishes.
Elifantico@reddit
I'll make a guess you've never lived in Panama, Mexico or Colombia. I've been living in Colombia for years as a gringo not earning too much money and think you are wildly incorrect about your impression of life in Colombia compared to those other places. I've lived in Mexico too, as well as a few other developing countries. Colombia has a lot of social problems for sure, but there's no reason the OP wouldn't necessarily be happier here than any other country in Central or South America. (She might not, but she just might.)
ComprehensiveFig9547@reddit
Hi, 40+ female here who travels and lives solo for long periods in different places. Colombia is a nice choice. Santa Marta is the vibe you are looking for and it will be less expensive and exhaustive than Cartagena in my experience. Learn some Spanish before you arrive then continue with lessons in SM - it will give you opportunity to expand your skills further, and socialize & immerse faster.
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Yessss… I was wondering if I would be able to find someone to take lessons from once I arrive. Good advice. Greatly appreciated.
gadgetvirtuoso@reddit
There are a lot of great Spanish teachers out there. There are a couple of good ones in Quito that are highly recommended in the expat community here. I’ve taken lessons from one of them.
Have you spent much time in Colombia yet? Are you prepared how LATAM treats black people? It’s just different than the US. Not necessarily better or worst just different.
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
I currently have an ipostal account but also my son will have access to my mail at home so I’ll be having him handle opening and sending me important documents.
NeoPrimitiveOasis@reddit
Have you considered Panama? Lower crime than Colombia, a large Black population, very good healthcare.
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Panama is using the dollar and there’s no real savings there for most people on a fixed income who aren’t going to be generating any money by working or starting a business Big difference between the cost of living comparison of Panama vs. Colombia/Dom Rep
Julysky19@reddit
Panama doesn’t usually tax retirement accounts so it’s a popular spot for Americans to retire to. I know I saw a lot around Boquete (or David which is a larger city with better healthcare for those that need it).
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Panama has excellent healthcare. If the U.S still had military installations there I think it would be a much better location for American expats. Fort Sherman was a really nice place to visit lol
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Yes that was on my initial list as well.
invaderfox@reddit
Spanish gonna be inportant! Also, since you’re black chances are you’ll be considered Colombian and Spanish speaking (no hate meant by this, just it can bel like that)- I would go to Santa Marta for a few days and get a feel for the city before making any big moves. Have you thought about Barranquilla? Santa Marta is nice, relatively safe but you always have to be vigilant, alert, etc. all that comes with living in South America, really
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Thank you for the info. I will research Barranquilla too!!
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Plus one on Barranquilla!
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Are nice beaches close by?
Adept_Desk7679@reddit
Barranquilla is a seaport! Nice beach from what little I saw of it.
Pecncorn1@reddit
Keep is mind the heat in Santa Marta is brutal and it's a big tourist destination for locals and foreigners. There is Minca about an hour up the mountain which is a bit cooler (I think finding a place to rent would be difficult) or Palomino farther up the coast, also touristy but a bit more chilled out IMHO. If I were to move back to that part of the coast I think I would choose Barranquilla, it has a lot more to offer. I'm an old Spanish speaking white guy. I can't presume to know what it is to be black however I during my two years there I never heard my friends or neighbors make any kind of disparaging or racist remarks about black folks (I didn't know a single foreigner in the two years I lived there) Some of them were pretty tired of Venezuelans but I think that is because of the few that brought shame on the many.
Good luck to you and I hope you find what you seek.
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
I really want to live close by water. Will Barranquilla have that?
Pecncorn1@reddit
Better I think. I was born and raised on a small island so I can't say I was all that much into beaches when I was there. I went a few times in SM with a friend and he was getter recurring ear infections. I suspect from the lack of water treatment before it runs into the sea.
The beaches in Barranquilla are a little out of town and there are more of them. I think finding a place to rent near one would be pretty easy.
I would work hard on my Spanish and interact as much as possible, duolingo or whatever is great I am sure but you really learn by speaking. Again IMHO.
Bobbyinredwood@reddit
Based on your criteria Santa M is where you’ll want to be.
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Good to know I’m in the right path.
daluzy@reddit
You didn't say where you are coming from, but most folks can enter Colombia on a initial 90 tourist stamp, which can be extended for another 90 days.
Both SM and Cartagena are tourist towns so prices are a bit high, even for locals...especially the beaches which can be unbearable with the vendors who constantly bother a person.
Make sure you know the price before receiving any services from the beach restaurants, vendors and all taxis.
When looking for a place to stay, look at the walls. SM and Cartagena have a flooding issue in several neighborhoods close to the beach, bad drainage and such.
Yes, as you are black, you will blend in until you open your mouth, then you will be tagged as a gringo, not awful but once the locals know, you'll get both the tourist tax and the gringo tax...chuckle. Once you start using the same small stores, this will change and you will be known, maybe not considered "local" but known is good and they will stop trying to rip you off as much.
SM and Cartagena are both loud. Costeno's (coastal folk) like their music loud, all day and all night and have more of a uncouth constant party culture, so before deciding on a long term place to stay, you observe what it is like first.
Once you start to understand Spanish, you might be referred to as "gringa negra" (black foreign girl). Don't be offended, all walks of life in Colombia refer to folks this way...if you are fat, you will hear the term "gorda"; dark skinned; "negra", old "vieja". Tone of voice would be the best indicator if they men offense or not.
So, by all mean give it a try. Spend about 30 days in a place, then move to the next and repeat. Once you hit 180 days, you will have to leave unless you initiate the Visa process. As I am married to a local, my process is pretty easy and can't really comment of the retired visa process. Take a look at the following website for more data...
cancilleria.gov
Google will typically translate it for you.
Good luck, be well!
Walkability
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Thank you for taking the time to give that detailed response, very helpful information. I started looking into a nomad visa since I have a business as well.
antizana@reddit
Sounds like a good choice, provided you like the vibe when you get there. You really will want to learn as much Spanish as you can, and starting out with some place simple versus somewhere flashy till you get a feel for the place is a good start
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Thank you!
rvgirl@reddit
I've never been to Colombia but I'd definately visit and do as much research as possible. There is a lot that goes on in Colombia but perhaps your age will be in your favour as a single female. I have a male friend who is moving there with his Colombian wife but they are moving into the upper mountain areas where her family is and she loves the cooler climate. I'm not much help but research is key, which I know you are doing.
justinhammerpants@reddit
This sub is for people who have already moved. Not to do your research work for you, though I’m sure if you wanted to pay someone to do this sort of compilation for you they would take it.
ljm222@reddit
this sub constantly sees people who are in the process of moving.. This lady has clearly done some research already, and is asking thoughts about two differing places. Who shat in your cornflakes this morning?
rvgirl@reddit
Omg I'm lmfao at your comment while sipping on my morning coffee in Mexico. Love it.
BeraRane@reddit
This is why I hate humanity.
Millennial_Snowbird@reddit
Actually, people ask their research questions in this sub all day, everyday and usually get helpful responses.
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Thank you!!
Plane_Direction7383@reddit (OP)
Well I have done quite a bit of research and decided on the two locations I mentioned, but happened to be scrolling Reddit which I’m pretty new to and found other threads so I decided to post since I saw similar questions asked. Your comment came off as rude and were unnecessary.