I used a conversion table from mm2 to AWG and this is what it gave me. I don‘t know (or care) about the american wire gauges system so I used a conversion table online. Also, don‘t confuse diameter with cross section. mm2 is a cross section, NOT a diameter.
Thank you, I will try to find a spare piece but so far everything appears to be connected and I can’t really find a piece to cut off. I will definitely pay attention to chart comparisons.
If you're replacing a wire - I don't think relying on the previous wire as a metric is necessarily the best. Rather - assess the expected load on the wire and go from there.
Wire gauge has to do with the size of the conductor not the insulator. for example a 18 gauge wire can have thicker or thinner insulation depending on what application you're using it for (i.e. outdoor vs indoor.) also you size your conductor based off how many amps you expect it to carry.
I appreciate it, I have tried to watch a few YouTube videos and talk to an electrician friend. I definitely know now that it’s not the size of the insulation, but the copper, or timned copper itself. I will also make note what it’s connected to and keep in mind the amperage.
Look at what ever you're feeding and it'll usually have some markings indicating the nominal amperage value. then its an easy lookup of NEC for ampacity of wire gauges. Also, I'd recommend using copper over aluminum.
There's a little known fact in that amperage chart. You can feed a 50 Amp full load Amp with a 14 in certain situations due to in rush current. It probably won't apply here but people will lose their minds quoting the wrong code saying you'll burn someone's house down. I post it in one of groups every now and then just to keep their heart beat running.
Wouldn't actually need them. In rush on an outside condenser in residential doesn't last long enough to burn it up. I don't have my code book near me but it's a very specific situation that messes lots of people up.
It truly is hilarious watching people lose their minds over it. Hell I'd quote the code and show it to them but they just live their heads walking around thinking a 12 is only rated for 20 amps
It trips people up because the name plate will read fla at 30 or 40amps then the continously is around 14 or 10 amps. So people who haven't dealt with it will just straight to it being a 10awg or an 8awg.
They should feel even dumber when you point to the line that says "Max fuse amps or max circuit breaker." Even then, though, I think the new code wants 12awg for almost everything except lighting.
First pic looks like 14 or 16 gauge to me. Second pic looks thicker at 10 or 12 gauge.
As others have said the insulation thickness can vary but at a glance that’s my bet.
If you’re asking about the actual diameter in MM, don’t confuse that with the mm2 measurement system which a metric alternative to AWG/gauge. Mm2 (millimeters square) refers to the cross sectional area of the conductor only, not the insulation. If you’re trying to actually measure that with a ruler you’d have to snip the wire to look at the cross sectional area
What is most important is l, what's connected to it.
You determine the max number of amps. Add 20%. Then use to figure out the wire size. I always check conductor size, because I expect people to cheap out.
I would order marine grade tinned wire with a solvent and fire resistant insulation. Fuse at the unswitched distribution panel with a fuse appropriate to protect the wire of an automatic bilge pump. Take into account voltage drop and if the wire runs through the engine bay or is bundled with others. Use a crimp connection with waterproof heatshrink applied over it.
Those fuse holders are normally 10awg. Any lower than that and you're going to see lugs instead of crimp connectors.
Give us more pictures and we can tell you. Check further down the wire run. Normally there is labeling telling u the wire awg. But those pre-made fuse holders don't always tell you. But they also only give u a few inches of wire with those fews holders. So just look further down
Don’t just replace wire like with like as you don’t necessarily know if the original was sized correctly. Go back to basics. Work out what the wire is for, what it needs to carry in terms of load, how long and in what conditions it will be, and make sure it is protected by a fuse. Rewiring without knowledge is a recipe for expensive learning experiences at the least. Get a book by Nigel Calder for some bed time reading.
I appreciate never overlooking the fundamentals as you say. Wire is for a bilge pump, fuse size 7.5 amps. I will also be ordering fuse holders in addition to wires.
Tagging on here. Please also be aware of a phenomenon called "voltage drop". Essentially the longer your wires the thicker they need to be for the same load. There are plenty of online calculators that can help with this. Some things are more or less sensitive to voltages below their nominal just check the device specs if you can. For example your bilge pump will likely not be as picky about the voltage it gets as your gps is. And when in doubt go thicker.
If you know the draw of what it's connected to, use this: https://www.bluesea.com/support/reference/529/Allowable_Amperage_in_Conductors_-_Wire_Sizing_Chart
DogtariousVanDog@reddit
Looks like 6mm2 or 10mm2 to me. If in doubt, go higher.
mmomtchev@reddit
I would vote for 6mm2. This kind of fuse usually uses 6mm2.
DogtariousVanDog@reddit
I agree.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Thank you sir! I am brand-new to electrical work, and I can’t justify the expense of marine mechanics right now.
Please enlighten me what these sizes translate to in AWG and metric?
DogtariousVanDog@reddit
I‘d say 6 or 8 AWG. And again for safety, if in doubt take a thicker one. You can always go thicker but never thinner.
pheitkemper@reddit
6 awg is over 4mm diameter conductor, not to mention the insulation thickness.
https://www.firgelliauto.com/blogs/news/understanding-wire-gauge-sizes-awg-101
DogtariousVanDog@reddit
I used a conversion table from mm2 to AWG and this is what it gave me. I don‘t know (or care) about the american wire gauges system so I used a conversion table online. Also, don‘t confuse diameter with cross section. mm2 is a cross section, NOT a diameter.
pheitkemper@reddit
I know what I said.
It only looks correct to you if you're taking a WAG about the insulation thickness.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Geez I thought it was 10 awg, thanks for letting me know. Lucky I cancelled my Amazon order before I posted here. Thanks 🙏
warchild@reddit
It’s definitely not this big. I’d say 10 or 12 AWG depending on insulation thickness.
DogtariousVanDog@reddit
Best to take a piece and take it to the store to compare.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Forgot to mention the ruler is showing centimetres (CM)
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Thank you, I will try to find a spare piece but so far everything appears to be connected and I can’t really find a piece to cut off. I will definitely pay attention to chart comparisons.
zebostoneleigh@reddit
If you're replacing a wire - I don't think relying on the previous wire as a metric is necessarily the best. Rather - assess the expected load on the wire and go from there.
AcceptableWelder1192@reddit
Wire gauge has to do with the size of the conductor not the insulator. for example a 18 gauge wire can have thicker or thinner insulation depending on what application you're using it for (i.e. outdoor vs indoor.) also you size your conductor based off how many amps you expect it to carry.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
I appreciate it, I have tried to watch a few YouTube videos and talk to an electrician friend. I definitely know now that it’s not the size of the insulation, but the copper, or timned copper itself. I will also make note what it’s connected to and keep in mind the amperage.
AcceptableWelder1192@reddit
Look at what ever you're feeding and it'll usually have some markings indicating the nominal amperage value. then its an easy lookup of NEC for ampacity of wire gauges. Also, I'd recommend using copper over aluminum.
Angry_Hermitcrab@reddit
There's a little known fact in that amperage chart. You can feed a 50 Amp full load Amp with a 14 in certain situations due to in rush current. It probably won't apply here but people will lose their minds quoting the wrong code saying you'll burn someone's house down. I post it in one of groups every now and then just to keep their heart beat running.
AcceptableWelder1192@reddit
yeah, Id install slow blow fuses/ installing breakers conductors too so you dont have wires burn up.
Angry_Hermitcrab@reddit
Wouldn't actually need them. In rush on an outside condenser in residential doesn't last long enough to burn it up. I don't have my code book near me but it's a very specific situation that messes lots of people up.
It truly is hilarious watching people lose their minds over it. Hell I'd quote the code and show it to them but they just live their heads walking around thinking a 12 is only rated for 20 amps
pheitkemper@reddit
That's because people typically talk about the continuous current rating. That's what you protect the circuit for.
Angry_Hermitcrab@reddit
It trips people up because the name plate will read fla at 30 or 40amps then the continously is around 14 or 10 amps. So people who haven't dealt with it will just straight to it being a 10awg or an 8awg.
pheitkemper@reddit
They should feel even dumber when you point to the line that says "Max fuse amps or max circuit breaker." Even then, though, I think the new code wants 12awg for almost everything except lighting.
Angry_Hermitcrab@reddit
What year you talking for that? Also I'm pretty sure the one I'm thinking of you can still upside the breaker if it instant trips.
AcceptableWelder1192@reddit
I gotcha, im always worried about exposed wires getting nicked and being able to short out and cause a fire. thats why I look to fuse smaller wires
slosh_baffle@reddit
12 or 14
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
I apologise, maybe I should’ve said that the ruler is showing centimetres (CM). 12 or 14 seems pretty different to what else has been said.
TB_Fixer@reddit
First pic looks like 14 or 16 gauge to me. Second pic looks thicker at 10 or 12 gauge.
As others have said the insulation thickness can vary but at a glance that’s my bet.
If you’re asking about the actual diameter in MM, don’t confuse that with the mm2 measurement system which a metric alternative to AWG/gauge. Mm2 (millimeters square) refers to the cross sectional area of the conductor only, not the insulation. If you’re trying to actually measure that with a ruler you’d have to snip the wire to look at the cross sectional area
slosh_baffle@reddit
You asked what gauge. It's 12 or 14 gauge.
overthehillhat@reddit
I've seen lots of , aging gracefully old wiring
for bilge pumps
that was smaller and faded -- and still working
Free_Range_Lobster@reddit
How about what does it go to?
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Bilge pump with a fuse of 7.5 amps. 12v battery
Free_Range_Lobster@reddit
Bilge pumps are generally 14ga runs.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
This is a rule Matic 1100 gph, there’s also a 2500 gph (external float switch) on the boat
Free_Range_Lobster@reddit
They should be wired independently.
deltamoney@reddit
What is most important is l, what's connected to it.
You determine the max number of amps. Add 20%. Then use to figure out the wire size. I always check conductor size, because I expect people to cheap out.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Bilge pump with a fuse of 7.5 amps. 12v battery
deltamoney@reddit
12 or 10 gauge is most likely what it is. Most likely 12. Rated for 20a up to 30 ft for non critical loads.
https://images.app.goo.gl/Y2JzgbzCAX2v15ri6
https://www.bluesea.com/articles/1437
sailorknots77@reddit
My guess is 2.5mm2. Maybe 1.5mm2.
DrMonkeytendon@reddit
I would order marine grade tinned wire with a solvent and fire resistant insulation. Fuse at the unswitched distribution panel with a fuse appropriate to protect the wire of an automatic bilge pump. Take into account voltage drop and if the wire runs through the engine bay or is bundled with others. Use a crimp connection with waterproof heatshrink applied over it.
Honest-Loquat-3439@reddit
This!
mwax321@reddit
Those fuse holders are normally 10awg. Any lower than that and you're going to see lugs instead of crimp connectors.
Give us more pictures and we can tell you. Check further down the wire run. Normally there is labeling telling u the wire awg. But those pre-made fuse holders don't always tell you. But they also only give u a few inches of wire with those fews holders. So just look further down
DrMonkeytendon@reddit
Don’t just replace wire like with like as you don’t necessarily know if the original was sized correctly. Go back to basics. Work out what the wire is for, what it needs to carry in terms of load, how long and in what conditions it will be, and make sure it is protected by a fuse. Rewiring without knowledge is a recipe for expensive learning experiences at the least. Get a book by Nigel Calder for some bed time reading.
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
I appreciate never overlooking the fundamentals as you say. Wire is for a bilge pump, fuse size 7.5 amps. I will also be ordering fuse holders in addition to wires.
Much-Research875@reddit
Tagging on here. Please also be aware of a phenomenon called "voltage drop". Essentially the longer your wires the thicker they need to be for the same load. There are plenty of online calculators that can help with this. Some things are more or less sensitive to voltages below their nominal just check the device specs if you can. For example your bilge pump will likely not be as picky about the voltage it gets as your gps is. And when in doubt go thicker.
briankanderson@reddit
If you know the draw of what it's connected to, use this: https://www.bluesea.com/support/reference/529/Allowable_Amperage_in_Conductors_-_Wire_Sizing_Chart
ReluctantRedneck@reddit (OP)
Thank you 🙏