Progress!
Posted by JcProject@reddit | projectcar | View on Reddit | 26 comments
Modified the power steering pump bracket to move the PS pump up and over to clear the lower radiator hose. For context ford never put a 460 in a 4x4 until 83(84?) So hoses and ps pump (and alternator) all made contact with something else. I had build one bracket not realizing the belt would make contact with the hose so this is attempt #2. Still working on my welding skill so my input would be appreciated. I turned down my wire speed during the project and slowed up my weave in the weld. I saw a marked improvement in the edge of the weld and overall hight of it. Additionally deeper beveles in the base materials made a difference too.
Erection_unrelated@reddit
Good work! My ‘78 also has a 460 and the previous owner just hacked every bit of the job.
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Thanks! It's been a project.
How were the headers/motor mounts done? I'm running l&l on mounts and headers, alternator brackets too now that I think about it. The ps pump is a custom unit im doing. What's going on with yours? Looks high mounted?
Erection_unrelated@reddit
PS and belt setup
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Looking at your set up, is your truck a 150?
Erection_unrelated@reddit
It is… HP D44 with radius arms.
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Nice, i have a 250 frame so it's leaf sprung and uses a different cross member.
Erection_unrelated@reddit
Ah, gotcha. Might be less helpful then. Sorry about that!
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Here is my fix
Erection_unrelated@reddit
Looks like it’ll do just fine! Awesome work!
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Thanks!
JcProject@reddit (OP)
I need to get better about taking photos
JcProject@reddit (OP)
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Np! The Motor mounts should be the same. And ps pump idea is! I'll snag photos of mine soon. I'm hoping to have it done tonight! At least mounted and on.
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Ya know it hadn't thought about it but lincons did have high ps pump mounts so thay does work. I went the other way and made mine cutting up the orginal. I think I was itching to weld and that was a good reason haha. The mounts look familiar but can't place em. Mine are L&L solids id prefer rubber/holly like what you have.
Erection_unrelated@reddit
PS and belt setup
img
Erection_unrelated@reddit
Passenger side mount
Erection_unrelated@reddit
Erection_unrelated@reddit
Exhaust is a mess… stock manifolds with a notch torched into the frame. More handiwork from the last guy.
The alternator bracket is from March Performance and bolts into the block and the Weiand water pump with a turnbuckle up top for belt tension.
The PS setup is, I think, from the ‘78 Lincoln that donated the engine.
As for the mounts, I didn’t see any part numbers on them, but I got a couple shots anyway.
ExactTour5340@reddit
Welds ain’t bad, assuming MIG? I’ll use picture 9 for reference, but when doing a horizontal weld, angle the gun in a way to where you’re hitting the top piece slightly more than the bottom (same applies even without MIG). Also with those long beads, don’t be afraid to pull out and restart, seems like it got a bit sloppy near the end (pic 5). Probably need a die grinder or little air 90 for something this small, but grind down the stop of the last weld to give yourself a nice landing. Then start idk 1/8-3/16” ahead of the crater, loop back to fill it in nice and carry on as usual. Mostly nit picking, looks good keep it up and keep practicing!
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Photo 5 is several welds trying to find better positions and tie back in, ill start further ahead next time and tie back instead of starting ontop. Thank you! For the shop space I have I still don't have air that's on my list... it will make a lot of little things easier. Greatly appreciate the input
ExactTour5340@reddit
That just opened the door to the most important rule! Be comfortable!! Barely beating out rule 2 of cleaning which you seem fine on. Sometimes you have to be out of position and in a tight spot, but don’t rush and do whatever you can to make sure you’ll be comfortable for the pass. Do some dry runs if you need to as well. Last thing we want is you to be 1/2” away from the stop and you fall out the chair… ask me how I know lol.
If you have a dremel that would work too, with other projects a normal grinder would work more than fine if you have enough room too. This ain’t exactly the best advice but I like to grind out the MIG/TIG craters with a cut wheel but a hard disk or flap works perfectly fine, a cut wheel on air/dremel is a lot safer than on a 4 1/2” though. The reason why you want to grind it down is because with MIG (TIG too) when you stop, the end point is at the same height as the rest of the bead. So when you go to restart you’ll end up with this big ugly lump and an improper restart. Opens the door for other defects such as porosity but that’s bot guaranteed. You can get away with it when running stick because it will always leave a crater unless you intentionally give it a few swirls to fill it in.
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Lol I havnt fallen out of a chair yet but definitely backed myself into a few corners. I need to get better about doing dry passes every time I turn around some one tells me that and I still don't do it near often enough
Mostly_Tamed@reddit
To me, on the longer welds it looks like you sre physically moving too fast, resulting in pointy arrow shaped welds instead of rounded "dimes". Concentrate on keeping your tip deep into your bevel and focus on keeping your speed down. Going too fast is a super common beginner mistake. Practice makes it go away:) Good luck!
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Thank you! Always looking for projects that give me a reason to break out the welder!
Fearless-Minimum-922@reddit
What kind of welder are you using? Sometimes the small MiG units can run too cold to get a good bead on materials thicker than sheet metal
JcProject@reddit (OP)
Forney 210 model. Its a multi process unint that does 110/220. I did all of this on 220, I can't remember my amps off hand but I hand turned the wire speed down to 180ipm. .035 wire with 25/75 mix