Ebike under 1500$ | TheaterFire

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NewspaperMuted6858@reddit

Looking for a fat tire e-bike under $1500, the Vivi ACE07 Commuter seems to be a solid choice. It's priced at $949.99, which fits your budget, and it has a 1475-watt motor that should provide a good amount of power. The range is up to 60 miles, which is decent for daily commuting. I've seen a few of these bikes mentioned around, and they seem to be well-received

This is a good place to start if you need a list to narrow down your choices based on your specific requirements.

https://www.ebikesfinder.com/?sort=ebikefinder_score&priceMax=1500&frame=fat+tire&utm_source=reddit&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=fresh_reply

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Global_Ball_9872@reddit

I would look into the Eahora Romeo series. Since you mentioned you prefer motorcycle style seats that series is for you. I’ve bought an Eahora myself and I and very happy with it. I don’t understand why the Eahora brand hasn’t blown up because their E-Bikes are really good quality, from the build, the battery’s range, and of course the speed.

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

I like the look of the eahora romeo pro. Is that the one you have

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Global_Ball_9872@reddit

No I have the Juliet 1

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o_Divine_o@reddit

Buy a bike suitable for the location you're in. I'm in the Appalachian mount range and bought a 48v, 20a (the amps the controller is capable of) hub drive.

I should have bought a mid drive with the grade of hills I need to climb.

I also bought one with hard tail (no rear suspension) and that's harder on the body and electronics. You really feel it the more mileage you do.

Voltage is another factor. Most people just look at voltage as top speed, but, higher voltage = more efficient. That translates to more range and less energy wasted to heat.

Amp requirement is lower to produce the same speed and torque. Basically it comes down to wattage output. 48v x 20a =960w to achieve that same wattage at 72v you do 960w ÷ 72v = 13.3a. The added bonus is you stress the individual batteries less since they're not using higher amps.

For legal sake, you can change the max amps the controller is permitted to use in the settings.

Mid drive kits however tend to peak at 48v, maybe 52v because you have gears that provide you with torque ranges. If we ignore ones you don't pedal. Those are single gear ratio.

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

San Francisco bay area and Orlando Florida. Thoughts on the Engwe M20 ?

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WisenheimerJones@reddit

Hub motors suck at climbing.

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o_Divine_o@reddit

San Fran the hills will be a large to massive challenge. In Florida, not bad at all. Biggest incline in Florida is on ramps and bridges.

San Francisco I suggest mid drive. Technically you can add mid onto that bike if you want with the rear drive. I would add a second battery pack for that and a dual vesc controller like a ubox https://spintend.com/collections/esc-based-on-vesc

I do like that platform.

Now you're major issues with the bike are the replaceable parts. Your Derailleur will likely be retail $17, it likely will use a square taper bottom end - the thing your crank set attaches to. Crank set is what you pedal. The brake calipers will be lowest quality, and the rotors will likely be soft enough that the pads will wear groves into it if using anything other than organic pads. The battery could likely be low quality cells. They may actually be Samsung or LG, but doesn't mean they're not salvage or one of the low end batteries.

This is just the nature of anything that has a low price. Hit something big brand name like Yamaha and those will be much higher quality in theory (I haven't looked at what they come with).

All of the drive train mentioned above can be upgraded after they're worn. I recommend www.jensonusa.com for bike parts. Stay away from Amazon for brand name, lots of fake stuff on there and battery pack sellers tend to sell as many as they can and go poof, because they always have poor reviews.

For batterys stick with https://www.amorge.com/ or build them yourself. Building them has an entry fee of likely 300-400 for a good battery welder. You can go cheaper but it'll be hard to weld the ideal thickness of strips.

The controller you can upgrade to a vesc down the road and bump the voltage if you want.

For tires, a 20x4 on bicycles is actually a 16x3 in motorcycle/street scooters. Bicycle measures the outside of the tire and motorcycle measures the rim. I the motor word that would be 100/80-16. Other figures that should work is 105, 110, the 80 could go 90, but 16 is required as that's rim size. The first set of numbers are width, then tire profile height (like low profile on a car) last is rim size. City Grip 2 is the best motor tire for road riding and you probably would get 8,000 miles before needing to swap while having far more grip.

They're going to be heavy compared to a bike tire. I haven't done it yet but will this year probably. I did buy motorcycle tubes though. These [BikeMaster Motorcycle Tubes] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FVD1RDY)

Bicycle tubes aren't great.

Here's a list of all the stuff I've gathered for upgrade options.

Hub: QS205 or QS273

There are other qs motors that could be more in line with what you need, these two are ones I've been looking at. The 273 is dirt bike/motorcycle range. It shouldn't be given under 72v.

VESC controllers Consider: Stormcore, Ubox, Xenith, Trampa, MakerX, 3shul, fardriver

Avoid: Flipsky, Makerbase, Maytech, Sabaton, Kelly

BMS: Consider JK, JBD, Clevor BMS, or Ant {people don't like Ant mobile app, otherwise good}.

Avoid: Daly (high failure rates)

Bms is if you're building a battery.

Brakes: Magura MT5E, Hope

I upgraded to mt5e and love it.

Rotors: Sram HS2

If upgrading go with 220mm. That will require a taller bracket for the calipers to sit on.

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Hungry-Breakfast-304@reddit

Why would hub motor not be good? I've got a fat tire ebike with a hub motor and have been climbing every steep incline I've came across in San Francisco no problem.

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o_Divine_o@reddit

Per watt a mid drive attached to your crank will give you much more torque as you're able to shift down.

I haven't been there myself, just looked up grades of hills and some were pretty steep. It sounded like San Fran has the hills i got, so based it off that.

I'm not sure if thats common or just in some areas. Once you hit about 15% TO 20+ a hub gets annoying to use, if it's in the 48v range. 60+ not so bad.

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WisenheimerJones@reddit

gif

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

?

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WisenheimerJones@reddit

Under $1000 moped = you finna die.

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Special-Telephone345@reddit

Maybe Hovscoscout, full suspension, alumium frame, torque sensor

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

Will look at it

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

Thoughts on the Engwe M20?

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marginal_option@reddit

The original M20 or the 2.0 version? It was pretty good when it came out. At its current price it is still pretty good value. You'll want to refresh on current CA laws that went in place 1/1/25 and make sure you get yourself a helmet.

Engwe M20 2.0: https://echargedbikes.com/engwe-m20-2-0-e-bike-review-comprehensive-guide/

Helmets: https://echargedbikes.com/best-safety-gear-for-e-bikes-locks-and-helmets/

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

original

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Neither_Respect9046@reddit (OP)

original is fastee with throttle

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Silent_Job5316@reddit

I’d recommend the bike I recently bought that seems to fit your needs, it’s a WindOne e2 it’s 750w fat tire and if you ever desire to go above the 750w, I upgraded mine to 1500w fairly easily. It’s also very affordable and built really well. I’d give it a look but they also have some other bikes that could be good too!

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