I've printed multiple Glock frames now on my BCN3d Epsilon W50 using NylonX and once I fine-tuned my print settings, I eliminated most all of the warping issues, as well as horizontal print lines being overly visible. The frames are incredibly durable & very light weight. Requires hardened nozzles and heated beds and slower print temps to achieve a properly tolerance frame with minimal post process cleanup. I think I printed at 270c, 80c bed temp, .1mm line height, .5mm width, 25mms speed, 15mms outer wall speed, %100 infill, printing the frame from its bottom up using tree supports & ironing the top. This way the top & inside where all the internals go, will be straight & clean for easy fitment. Prints took a day, but when it comes to printing a handgun frame, you don't want to sacrifice quality/strength over speed/material cost. I also sand blasted & cerakoted mine to anneal & seal the nylon from absorbing ambient moisture. The Nylon soaked up a good bit of cerakote before it was saturated and cured. Resulting in an even more stable and strong 3d printed Glock 43x frame. The PLA+ of course will print easier with more details, but at the cost of softening under less friction/heat. My NylonX frames are still going strong after a thousand rounds. I think the cerakote helps solve the post print issues with moisture absorption/warping & annealing for better strength/flexibility and thermal stability, since the cerakote bakes into the nylonX effectively sealing it as well as adding abrasion/chemical/UV resistance when using C series air cured for uv stability or H series oven cured to effectively anneal the part, while stopping its moisture absorption properties.